clutch adjustment

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All of the above. What trans? What clutch? What linkage? What bell housing? We need a complete list all of the parts that were used. A stock set up uses an inch of clutch pedal free play and full disengagement long before the pedal hits the floor. Even with totally stock parts there can be problems so be specific.
used
All of the above. What trans? What clutch? What linkage? What bell housing? We need a complete list all of the parts that were used. A stock set up uses an inch of clutch pedal free play and full disengagement long before the pedal hits the floor. Even with totally stock parts there can be problems so be specific.
used 4-speed conversion kit from dixie monte carlo,hay-85-100 street clutch kit from summit racing, 1985 corvette bellhousing with correct clutch fork location, cluth fork gm 14066235
 
Bonnewagon, in your response and questionnaire, you posted a picture of a kit for the clutch linkage with the ball pivot ends. Who is the manufacturer or supplier for that kit? The picture would not enlarge so I could not read the writing on the bag.


Nick
 
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The bellhousing and fork are not G body parts so the linkage might not be compatible as/is. Might need mods like bonniewagon mentions in previous post.
 
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When I did my own conversion, I used a Muncie box and the bellhousing was a G-body specific unit that came from one of the 4 door V-6 Iraqi Taxi/Saudi Chevvies that were made back in the late 70's. it came with its matching clutch fork, and the pivot ball for the Z-bar screwed directly into the boss located above the oil filter mount on the engine block as well as to the factory frame mounted outboard outer pivot ball bracket Which is the whole point of this. What I used personally was all period and model correct components. As one example, The corvette version of the bell housing you mention using came from what original application?? And yes, I do agree that finding the OEM parts can be tough and expensive, but unless you have the patience of JOB, or that of some of the contributors to this board, you are going to be doing a lot of mix and match, with lots of mix, and potentially very little match. The other point here is that the geometry has to be right or the clutch linkage will never work or adjust the way you need it to.


Nick
 
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THANKS LARGE MR BONNEWAGON, SAH. Already followed the link and that is exactly what i am now looking for. When I did the original install I did use the factory OEM upper and lower rods but got to thinking about things like deflection and twist and bend and old age and concluded that I might be headed down a rabbit hole by going stock. This is not a 100 point restoration after all.


Thanks again.

CopperNick
 
Nick, the main reason I upgraded was that I got tired of replacing the upper rod on my Firebird and Malibu. The end that connected to the Z-bar always wore down fast no matter how much I lubed it. It used to be cheap and easy to get a new one, then the Pontiac dealers closed. The only place that had it was a local Chevy dealer. The cranky old parts guy did not want to provide 'Chevy' parts for a Pontiac, even though it was a generic GM part number. The young parts guy had a GTO so I would wait for the old guy to be off on Saturday. Then the parts got hard to get and only re-pop places had it. This Speed-Direct unit is stronger, and maintenance free. I need one for my '68 Firebird too so thanks for reminding me about that.
 
No problema. Now that I have given the go-ahead for that Steering Column to be confirmed and if correct, harvested and sent to me,that clutch linkage will be my next item on the list.
Which brings up a question, Did you have any issues getting the heim joint bolted up to the clutch pedal?



Nick
 
Not the joint itself. But I found that the bend in the rod was not a perfect fit for my car body. There was a LOT of junk in the way. Perhaps being an '83 Pontiac VS my '81 Chevy was the issue. It seemed that things were placed differently. This is not the first time I discovered that each division made slight changes that made interchanges difficult. Plus, the fact that I re-located the hole on the Z-bar, meant that the rod was angled down so much, that I had to cut open the firewall for clearance. I also found that it is impossible to make adjustments to the joints while in the car. You need to adjust, test fit, remove and re-adjust. Once adjusted and locked in place, you can forget it and enjoy maintenance free clutch operation.
 
So after a few weeks of life being life, I managed to log on to the Speed Direct site using the link you so graciously provided but althought I could bring up the picture, I could not get to the payment page to buy the item. They still in business or gone the way of the lesser Dodo bird?

Nick
 
The 2025 Calendars are HERE. Two different editions, two different sizes, and a digital package!! Starting at $12.97US

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