Cost of a street build

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Spring Break '92

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 1, 2008
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I have owned an 84 Cutlass before, but was not into modifying cars back then. I have been driving and modifying import turbo cars ever since I got the bug. I want another Cutlass. What is the average cost on top of the car itself to have a nice, well rounded G Body street car with 300-400 hp, as in, how much do you guys have in your cars? It cant be as much as people have in Japanese cars. That stuff is expensive. My friend who is a Chevy guy told me that if I had $10K in a G Body and it wasnt top notch he would be offended .
 
It really depends on what you want to do with the car. Drag, show, etc.
$10k can go real far if you just want to do the drive train.
If you are getting into suspension, body, etc, too it won't go as far.
The last small block I built before I started getting into the buick stuff was about 3800 bucks and made over 500 hp.
 
Well, it all depends on what you want from it and what you started with. $10k is quite easy to spend for a decent one with nice paint, stereo, built suspension, upgraded brakes, engine, transmission, interior, etc. Mine was total crap by the time I started rebuilding it, and I easily have $10-12k in it if you add up all the little bits ad pieces. Then again, I wanted a nice all-rounder with good handling, A/C, cruise control, stereo, perfect body work and mile deep paint, etc. Now, if all you want to do is go fast in a straight line, and your idea of a paint job includes going to Wal Mart and buying a case of flat black spray paint, you can get away much cheaper. You will need a real rear axle if you plan on beating on it hard or running slicks, so count that in the price of admission. The rear axle would be anywhere from $600-2500 depending on you ability to shop, and what you want. The engine can be really cheap to do. A 400hp SBC can probably be built for under $2500 including all new internals and quality machine work. Less if you get a good core to start with. Plus, you can add another 150hp of nitrous to it if you go with forged pistons. The transmission will run you $350-2000, again depending on what you want.

For the cheapest possible domestic way to go fast, get a 1987-1993 Mustang 5.0 with a 5 speed. A good rear end to start with, the transmission is not bad, and oodles of parts available new and used. Plus, the 1987-92 models also came factory with forged pistons and the short block can take amazing amounts of abuse. It has a factory roller cam, and used upgrade cams are available cheap. The bad? Well, it is made from very thin metal and the chassis tends to develop stress cracks (under the driver's seat especially) and you can rip the torque boxes out under severe abuse. Subframe connectors are a must, and other reinforcements are also advisable if you plan on racing it.

Overall, domestic is faster for less money for drag racing when compared to front drive imports. A 12 second G body can be built substantially cheaper than a 12 second Civic. I have known people with absurd amounts of cash into B18's, LS/VTEC's and CR-VTEC's that only ran that number. Now, you could do a best of both worlds car, like a LSX swap into a last gen RX-7, Miata, or a S13 or S14 240sx. This would give you domestic power cheapness in a great handling RWD chassis. Plus, the aluminum LSX engines don't weigh much more than a 13b, and probably not much more than a KA24DE either. Then again, the LSX is cheap only if you have the ability to do it yourself.
 
Thanks. I have an S13 with KA-T right now. I love it, but I also want a G Body. I will eventually just get the car and do it one piece at a time. I assume it will be a lot easier just to get one with a 305 in it. Id like to do a 383 up from a 350. I was thinking of a $5K budget, possibly including the price of the car. Somewhat of a daily driver. I know its not going to get the same fuel economy as my S13. Just not something thats going to sit for weeks at a time.
 
Get one with a 267 or 305, and you get the right accessory drives to bolt in a SBC. Get one with a TH2004R (overdrive) and you also get a transmission you can use as well. As for economy vs a KA-t, you'd be surprised how close it can be. I have a Frontier with a KA24DE/FS5W71C that is not quite working right ( or it's just that it has 300k on it) and it is within 1-3 mpg of my 355 Cutlass in the city.
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
Get one with a 267 or 305, and you get the right accessory drives to bolt in a SBC. Get one with a TH2004R (overdrive) and you also get a transmission you can use as well. As for economy vs a KA-t, you'd be surprised how close it can be. I have a Frontier with a KA24DE/FS5W71C that is not quite working right ( or it's just that it has 300k on it) and it is within 1-3 mpg of my 355 Cutlass in the city.
Sounds good. I have no idea when I will come around to getting one but its definitely in the cards. Your KA is bone stock from what I gathered. That and the fact that it has 300K are both factors. I get around 360 miles per tank (13 gal.) with mine even with occasional stoplight launches and lots of boosting. But back to the Cutlasses. Thanks for the info. Ive got the paint and body covered. I really wouldnt mind having the stock 305 for a while and just keep it running good.
 
Mine used to get 24mpg delivering pizza, but my last tank was only 18.3! Yeah, it's stock, but it still runs fine. The OBD II scanner says it needs a new cat, so maybe it's getting plugged. I do all the repairs to it as I don't trust mechanics, and am the original owner. I'm a bit of a Nissan Geek as well as the GM thing, and used to be one of the top 10 posters on Nissan Forums before it started to suck. Then everyone left, and so did I.
 
300 - 400 hp can be done for 1500$
If you know how to build engines.
If not, 2500.
I dabbled with hondas for a while
Then I realized these guys were spending 3000+ to swap a 160hp b16 into thier cars.
Then I laughed hysterically and sold my crx's.
I'm currently building an engine somewhere in the 400hp range for less than 1200$
 
I would def start with the plugged cat. I figured you knew something since you know your engine code. Only people who care would know something like that. 8)
 
that depends if you want to go cubes, you could pick up a running big block with the power you want for probably less than a 1k. then you can spend the rest on suspension, paint, etc. could pick up an old olds 455, buick 455 (early one), or something even as crazy as a 502. you do lose your milage, but that all depends on your gas situation. i know people who have done the olds 455 swap, and a 502 caddy swap. there is people on a different site that did a 455 buick swap that i found, since i was considering doing a buick swap. with your hp goals i would go for more cubes. but that is just one mans opinion

you could probably get a transmission with the motor, but if not you will need something that can hold the torque of a b/b. depending on 3 or 4 speed would depend what transmission choice you would want
 
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