Crate 350 swap

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
8,117
113
Michigan
I already have it and put it in yesterday
That's too bad, make sure you break that cam in properly or it will be out again shortly.
 
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white85

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Jan 2, 2020
44
18
Don’t open the A/C if it works you can hang it out of the way over the fender don’t add to your cost you don’t need to completely remove it from the car if it still works
The a/c was drained before I started, must of had a leak. I pulled everything and painted it.
image.jpg
 

ssn696

Living in the Past
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
4,872
113
Mid-life crisis
Welcome to the affliction. Sounds like accessories will not be a problem after all. Nice car to start from. Choose an oil with 'zinc' or 'ZDDP'. Recommend priming the engine before start, check the instruction sheet that I hope came with your motor. Unclear whether this is part of 'turn key'. Any hint whether they set the lifter preload? Best choice is to take off both valve covers and turn the motor over two complete turns once the drill motor 'slows down' meaning it is pushing oil. Priming tool will also be handy when inserting the distributor. If you can spin the pushrods in your fingers after priming, they did not set preload. I could go on, but I'll wait for your request before triggering the second barrel...
 
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white85

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Jan 2, 2020
44
18
Welcome to the affliction. Sounds like accessories will not be a problem after all. Nice car to start from. Choose an oil with 'zinc' or 'ZDDP'. Recommend priming the engine before start, check the instruction sheet that I hope came with your motor. Unclear whether this is part of 'turn key'. Any hint whether they set the lifter preload? Best choice is to take off both valve covers and turn the motor over two complete turns once the drill motor 'slows down' meaning it is pushing oil. Priming tool will also be handy when inserting the distributor. If you can spin the pushrods in your fingers after priming, they did not set preload. I could go on, but I'll wait for your request before triggering the second barrel...
Thank & yes it’s a turn key , not sure if they set the preload I will have to check that out thanks for the heads up. I knew about the priming to and was going to get one.

This is my first g body & my first engine swap. I’ve had the truck apart since last November, started from the back and moved forward. Everything is painted underneath and I swapped the stock rear end with a 3:73 posi. My brother rebuilt a 700R for me & I also installed a 2000 stall converter.
 
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mikester

Royal Smart Person
Mar 10, 2010
1,960
113
Small town NY
I bought that exact motor for my Malibu wagon. Not a bad swap but it took a little bit of work. You'll need a Cutlass condensor for the AC since the lines are on the right side. I havent bought the AC lines from the compressor but Ive been told I'll need lines from an F body. Wiring took a little time but mostly because Im fussy. You'll need the right adaptor for the alternator too. Depends on what you have in the dash. Idiot light or gauge.
Some things are stupid. The wire loom brackets included with the motor are for aluminum heads. They wont work with the cast heads. Dipstick has to be put in while you put the right header on. Put it on ahead of time and the header wont go over it with the AC box on the firewall. Not a bit deal just something else I realized after the fact and had to redo.
Also since its got a vortec manifold I had to modify the kickdown bracket for the transmission since I have a TH350. You might also need a Holley high idle solenoid and the bracket for it. The bracket need to be cut and modified to fit the carb and manifold. No matter what it says in the description its not true. You have to hog it out to fit the carb linkage.
 

white85

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Jan 2, 2020
44
18
I bought that exact motor for my Malibu wagon. Not a bad swap but it took a little bit of work. You'll need a Cutlass condensor for the AC since the lines are on the right side. I havent bought the AC lines from the compressor but Ive been told I'll need lines from an F body. Wiring took a little time but mostly because Im fussy. You'll need the right adaptor for the alternator too. Depends on what you have in the dash. Idiot light or gauge.
Some things are stupid. The wire loom brackets included with the motor are for aluminum heads. They wont work with the cast heads. Dipstick has to be put in while you put the right header on. Put it on ahead of time and the header wont go over it with the AC box on the firewall. Not a bit deal just something else I realized after the fact and had to redo.
Also since its got a vortec manifold I had to modify the kickdown bracket for the transmission since I have a TH350. You might also need a Holley high idle solenoid and the bracket for it. The bracket need to be cut and modified to fit the carb and manifold. No matter what it says in the description its not true. You have to hog it out to fit the carb linkage.
Thanks good to know, what headers and exhaust did you go with?
 

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