creating a lock out switch for trans??

[madmaxstyle]

the torque converter locks up at higher speeds therefore I think it actually engages at that time. The th350C will do fine without the lockup torque converter hooked up wont hurt it a bit. Its the 700r4 and 2004r that require the torque converter hooked up.

 

[Charady]

hopefully this will answer your question. I didnt read all the way through it but it looked like the first few posts answered your questions.

http://elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=27355

 

[Doober]

All the neutral safety switch is for is to only allow the car to start when it's in neutral or park.

For a converter lockup circuit, you'll need a vacuum switch, a relay, some wiring, and the proper plug (4-pin platic plug). There are a couple ways you can wire it, I will outline one of them. The vacuum switch has one leg that goes to one side of the lockup plug, the other goes to a normally-closed side of the relay. The other side of the normally-closed circuit on the relay goes to key-switched +12v. The other lead from the 4-prong plug will go to chassis ground. You wire the trigger side of the relay to the switched side of your brake switch. Ideally you'll also have a temperature switch wired to only allow lockup when the engine is warmed up (otherwise there's a chance you encounter slight driveability issues), but it's probably not 100% necessary.

That's pretty much it in a beanbag, I can draw up a schematic for it if needed.

 

[FE3X CLONE]

Haha, man-o-man! Now i dont know what i need. Im told one thing so i look it up just to be thrown a few more!!!
I was told since i no longer have a computer running my car i would need a lock out kit for my torque converter... You know the switch that disengages it at higher speeds???

Ahh, okay. Like other's mentioned this would be for your torque converter lockup. Of course the next question would be if you have the original TH-350C under there or if it was ever swapped out to a standard TH-350 over the years? If its the original then there will be an electrical plug on the drivers side of the trans that went to the computer.
If its a non-lockup TH-350 then obviously there won't be a plug.

And as said, you shouldn't have any problems running it without the lockup. I had a stock TH-2004R behind my 455 for years without lockup and it was never a problem. However, since you have it, you might as well use it. 😉 Should get you slightly better MPG and around 200rpm less at cruise.

I've never used a manual switch for the lockup due to the fact I didn't want to have to remember to flip it on and off all the time. I have used a few aftermarket lockup control kits with varying results. I had a TCI lockup kit that used engine vacuum to tell the converter when to lockup. That worked like absolute crap and everyone I've ever talked to that had used one said the same.
The other one I've used was made by B&M and adapted to the speedometer cable and locked the converter up based on vehicle speed. It was adjustable from something like 50-90mph. This one worked extremely well and the only thing that would have been nice would have been to tie it into the brake light switch so that when you hit the brakes it would disengage the converter.

However, it is expensive: http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70244/10002/-1

There may be other solutions out there now.

As far as the safety switch, i have no clue what that is for. I have a floor shifter not a column shifter if that helps with that? and like before

The neutral safety switch is there to keep you from starting the car in anything but neutral or park. If you didn't touch anything with the trans then it should all still be there and functioning and you don't need to worry about it.

 

[Doober]

Ok you twisted my arm 😛 Here's a diagram.

You can build the circuit yourself for under $20 I believe, have to double check on the price for parts though.