Cylinder Head Paint and Rustproofing

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Obviously clean as well as possible first but I always use an engine enamel for all steps with a primer first, then paint and finish with a clear coat and I always use the same brand for all 3 products. For engine enamel I prefer Duplicolor brand, but there are others that work well also.

I am curious why you use a clear coat on the engine. POR advertises its engine paint as having more pigments/solids, (why it dries slower) and therefore better. If that's better, than a clear coat would seem to be the wrong way to go.
 
I am curious why you use a clear coat on the engine. POR advertises its engine paint as having more pigments/solids, (why it dries slower) and therefore better. If that's better, than a clear coat would seem to be the wrong way to go.

Agreed. I put clear coat on an aluminum intake manifold and it yellowed and chipped off from the heat.
 
I've used POR 15 on 2 builds now,(same block), and it holds up very well.Even after hot tanking and pressure washing there was still remants of the previous Chevy Orange on the block,and this was after 8 yeras of use.
Guy
 
I am curious why you use a clear coat on the engine. POR advertises its engine paint as having more pigments/solids, (why it dries slower) and therefore better. If that's better, than a clear coat would seem to be the wrong way to go.
I put a clear coat on my engine enamel for an added layer of protection but comparing POR 15 and regular high heat engine paints are not the same.
I have used POR 15 many times but not on an engine it is a great product but since my Gbodies don't see year round weather I like using a fast drying paint from a spray can that I can source locally and not have to order.
 
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I put clear coat on an aluminum intake manifold and it yellowed and chipped off from the heat.
I have had that happen also when spraying clear engine enamel on an aluminum intake but I have found if you use the 1200 degree clear and don't just spray it but basically "fog it" and it will provide layer of protection without yellowing.
 
I usually use VHT engine enamel. As 565 suggested, use the same brand for primer, color and clear to avoid compatibility issues! Spray in light-medium coats to avoid runs, sags, or it will chip and flake off.

Remember, prep is everything!!!! I used VHT primer, gloss black, and clear on my 355sbc and even after superheating the block due to a fuel supply issue the paint never cracked or chipped!
 
So, my can of POR engine paint arrived. I plan on putting old spark plugs and cotton balls in the bolt holes in when I paint. Do I just run a chase in after the paint dries but before it fully cures to get any excess off? The part where the cylinder head bolts seat against the head shouldn't be painted, so I can just mask that off, but I assume that may need to be cleaned off as well. Any tips on that?
 
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