Dave’s 81 Cutlass Build

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USE Bolt-ON braces to stiffen the frame. Since you don't weld it will cost $$$$$$ to have someone do it for you. For streetcar you don't need tubs, everyone here will disagree!
 

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USE Bolt-ON braces to stiffen the frame. Since you don't weld it will cost $$$$$$ to have someone do it for you. For streetcar you don't need tubs, everyone here will disagree!
I will definitely use bolt on braces for the rear, I see a lot of front bolt on braces as well, what’s your opinion on those?
 
I will definitely use bolt on braces for the rear, I see a lot of front bolt on braces as well, what’s your opinion on those?
the UMII brace that triangulates the frame horns across the front and replaces the front jounce bars will really stiffen. I see you got the dual hump transmission crossmember that really stiffens.
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the UMII brace that triangulates the frame horns across the front and replaces the front jounce bars will really stiffen. I see you got the dual hump transmission crossmember that really stiffens. View attachment 207343
That’s the exact kit I was looking at! I’ll definitely be ordering these. I must say, I’m tempted to get a chunk of scrap plate and practice welding. I feel like I could handle boxing the frame rails with a kit from hellwig or similar with patience and practice but maybe I’m wrong. I’ve wanted to learn for years. Anyways, that’s a whole different conversation. Thank you for the advice and knowledge my friend I appreciate it!
 
That’s the exact kit I was looking at! I’ll definitely be ordering these. I must say, I’m tempted to get a chunk of scrap plate and practice welding. I feel like I could handle boxing the frame rails with a kit from hellwig or similar with patience and practice but maybe I’m wrong. I’ve wanted to learn for years. Anyways, that’s a whole different conversation. Thank you for the advice and knowledge my friend I appreciate it!
I've always said: if it didn't come out pretty but it is good, at least I didn't pay mega $$$$ to have some else mess it up.
 
Well the past few weeks have been busy but here are some updates on whats been done.
  • Frame has been dropped off to a local shop for sandblast and powder coat, cost 500 bucks.
  • Ordered the complete BMR G-body package. I didn't want to mix and match and also this is one of the few kits that come with tubular Front lowers. Definitely the best priced and comes with all hardware, new shocks, springs, bushings, etc. as well, we will see what kind of quality it is when it gets here tomorrow.
  • I've been spending hours under the body with the wire cup brush wheel getting all the gunk and waxy crud off so I can coat the body. Maybe 1/4 of the way through the car, wheel wells take a lot of time
  • Anyone have any suggestions for this body mount or whatever it is?
 

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Well the past few weeks have been busy but here are some updates on whats been done.
  • Frame has been dropped off to a local shop for sandblast and powder coat, cost 500 bucks.
  • Ordered the complete BMR G-body package. I didn't want to mix and match and also this is one of the few kits that come with tubular Front lowers. Definitely the best priced and comes with all hardware, new shocks, springs, bushings, etc. as well, we will see what kind of quality it is when it gets here tomorrow.
  • I've been spending hours under the body with the wire cup brush wheel getting all the gunk and waxy crud off so I can coat the body. Maybe 1/4 of the way through the car, wheel wells take a lot of time
  • Anyone have any suggestions for this body mount or whatever it is?
That is not a body mount. It is a brace. Patch the rust with metal and spray coat it.
 
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That is not a body mount. It is a brace. Patch the rust with metal and spray coat it.
I correct myself; the round hole is body mount that is used on Buick GNs. Some body mount kits will include a cushion to use this mounting location. It is called the # 5 position. I went ahead and installed it in mine.
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Notching frame is not difficult when the frame is not under the car.

I'd recommend you get a welder and learn. You appear to have enough skill to get to this point, why not pickup a decent 110 mig and start learning. A Hobart, Lincoln, Miller, Snap On, etc will get the job done. A 110 mig will weld upto 3/16 at full heat and at a slow wire speed. And it is also more than functional for welding in patch panels, etc. boxing the frame and installing wheel notches is not welding that has to be pretty - you're probably the only person that will ever see any imperfections.

Practice makes perfect with welding.
 
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