Dead battery/start question

[RICKDIZZLE]

Ok I am 99% sure I know the answer just want validation if I am on the correct track.

1985 Cutty, semi-show car. Battery is about 8 years old and has not been on a tender. Car sat for last couple months due to weather and work. Went to fire her up. Dead battery tested at 6.8 volts. Charged up the battery and got her to 12.1. Lights work, fuel pump kicks on, but when I try to turn it over...not even a click from the starter solenoid. I get a few dummy lights kick on dim but nothing.

My thought is based on batteries age and how bad she drained..a cell or 2 is shot now. Thus there isn't enough CCA to even kick the starter over at all or get the solenoid to close.

Probably just needs a new battery and put on a tender when parked.

For the heck of it...turned on the headlights and tried to start to see if they go dark...they dimmed when I tried to start..but didnt go dark. You fellas think I am on the right track of just bad battery?

 

[pagrunt]

I'd say it's succumbing to old age. Might still keep a charge while no load is on it but don't have enough amps to do the job at this point.

 

[RICKDIZZLE]

I'd say it's succumbing to old age. Might still keep a charge while no load is on it but don't have enough amps to do the job at this point.

Thank you for the response. Kinda what I figured. I will swoop up a new battery AND a tender lol.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

The one in my Corvette will die in 2 weeks, because Corvette life. I've had better luck just disconnecting it and zipping it back on with a 8mm ratchet wrench over using a tender.

 

[69hurstolds]

8 years to die isn't bad. Especially with no tender.

If the car jumped off quickly with your "current" situation, then it's likely not the starting circuit. New battery should cure those ills. But check your starting/charging circuit for proper operation just to be sure it's not an issue that just popped up.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

I'm leaning towards a dead cell, that's what they do.

 

[RICKDIZZLE]

8 years to die isn't bad. Especially with no tender.

If the car jumped off quickly with your "current" situation, then it's likely not the starting circuit. New battery should cure those ills. But check your starting/charging circuit for proper operation just to be sure it's not an issue that just popped up.

To clarify...the car never even started. Was not attempted to be jump started due to where it is parked in my garage. Just showed the symptoms listed above and I stopped messing with it due to running out of time.
Ill grab a fresh battery as it needs one anyhow...if still no joy, Ill start checking stuff one by one..

 

[CopperNick]

Doing a load test or pile test on the battery should tell the tale but, minus that, still sticking with the majority opinion here; that being you now have an "EX-Battery; it has ceased to be."

Just a side thought here, battery tenders are a useful adjunct for keeping a battery hot and sweet during long term inaction. My Non G-Body G-body has one on its battery while it sits in the shop and even my S-10 has one attached to its battery, even though right now it is my daily driver, because having the battery being tickled during cold winter reduces the load and drain on it during a below zero start; it rolls over faster and starts sooner. The extra zots being consumed by the tenders don't add appreciably to the monthly electrical bill so an easy-peasy decision.



Nick



Nick

 

[69hurstolds]

Quick and dirty things to look for...

Dirty/loose connections to starter and battery. Cable integrity, no cut/damaged/burnt insulation. Obvious signs of sparkies dancing outside the cables. Wiring to/from alternator is intact, belts tight. When you get it running, the gage shows it's charging, or the "generator" light isn't lit. I'm assuming no maintenance has been done to kill the battery lately, so the bet money should be on the battery finally decided to turn in its resignation.

 

[abbey castro]

Get a battery.