Dead blower motor

[pagrunt]

Yes I removed the AC hard lines and compressor. And swapped the box out for a non ac box. I did have to glue in a piece of the old housing into the new box for the fan to actually push air. The module (control box in the dash) and everything else is existing. The new relay and resistor were replacements for a car with ac as well as the blower motor.

OK, a mix-match set. Doing this conversion you should of also changed the dash control panel & harnesses to ensure everything fuctions as designed. I do wonder if you have the heat-A/C control panel, how does the heat only box function for floor & defrost? If you are using the original harness & the heat only blower odds are it is getting fried for not being the correct blower. To be honest going heat-A/C to heater & the other way it has to be a all or nothing conversion. It might of been better to find one of those fiberglass module case conversion panels that would allow the removal of the A/C parts but still retain the blower & harnesses to allow everything to function without mixing system parts.

 

[Baker7888]

OK, a mix-match set. Doing this conversion you should of also changed the dash control panel & harnesses to ensure everything fuctions as designed. I do wonder if you have the heat-A/C control panel, how does the heat only box function for floor & defrost? If you are using the original harness & the heat only blower odds are it is getting fried for not being the correct blower. To be honest going heat-A/C to & the other way it has to be a all or nothing conversion. It might of been better to find one of those fiberglass module case conversion panels that would allow the removal of the A/C parts but still retain the blower & harnesses to allow everything to function without mixing system parts.

All doors seem to function as intended. I know i tested them using a vacuum pump at some point. Both units that burned were AC blowers (not non ac) still I wonder what the difference is, all i could find is the ac blower motor is vented. I would think power draw would be the same regardless if the compressor is intact or not? I do know a ton of stuff i have bought has been dead out of the box so i was actually hoping in this case that it was just another dud.

 

[pagrunt]

All doors seem to function as intended. I know i tested them using a vacuum pump at some point. Both units that burned were AC blowers (not non ac) still I wonder what the difference is, all i could find is the ac blower motor is vented. I would think power draw would be the same regardless if the compressor is intact or not? I do know a ton of stuff i have bought has been dead out of the box so i was actually hoping in this case that it was just another dud.

OK, I now have a direction to go. As you said the doors work with vacuum as intended then it's a heat-A/C module case that's still in the car. I will suggest to put a 30 amp fuse on the red wire just before the blower realy. Bean counters in the mid '70's had them quit using them cause of the fusible link that wire feeds off of but our crs should have one. See what happens with the fuse & another blower motor. Try to find a used one so it it gets fried it won't be that much of hit on the money. Next step would be replace the blower relay. As long as the wires were not crossed or makeing bare contact somewere in the harness this should hopefully rule out the the blower circuit main power.

 

[Baker7888]

OK, I now have a direction to go. As you said the doors work with vacuum as intended then it's a heat-A/C module case that's still in the car. I will suggest to put a 30 amp fuse on the red wire just before the blower realy. Bean counters in the mid '70's had them quit using them cause of the fusible link that wire feeds off of but our crs should have one. See what happens with the fuse & another blower motor. Try to find a used one so it it gets fried it won't be that much of hit on the money. Next step would be replace the blower relay. As long as the wires were not crossed or makeing bare contact somewere in the harness this should hopefully rule out the the blower circuit main power.

You da man Pagrunt. I will add the fuse and report back. May be a few days

 

[Baker7888]

OK, I now have a direction to go. As you said the doors work with vacuum as intended then it's a heat-A/C module case that's still in the car. I will suggest to put a 30 amp fuse on the red wire just before the blower realy. Bean counters in the mid '70's had them quit using them cause of the fusible link that wire feeds off of but our crs should have one. See what happens with the fuse & another blower motor. Try to find a used one so it it gets fried it won't be that much of hit on the money. Next step would be replace the blower relay. As long as the wires were not crossed or makeing bare contact somewere in the harness this should hopefully rule out the the blower circuit main power.

New blower motor is in and it works. I put a 30 amp fuse on the red wire like you suggested. Do you think 30 is good or should I try a 20 or 25?

 

[pagrunt]

New blower motor is in and it works. I put a 30 amp fuse on the red wire like you suggested. Do you think 30 is good or should I try a 20 or 25?

30 amp was what the earlier years used before the bean counters pulled them. Possible a 25 may work as our cars use a 12 AWG wire as the '77 & older A's used 10 AWG wire. But I'd still recommend a 30 regardless.