dent pulling

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doood

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Sep 24, 2020
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This nice '85 picked up a dent behind the driver's side door. The doors close perfectly and the striker is not out of place although you can see some deformation where the door jam vent isn't exactly flat on the outside top corner.

If the inner upholstery is removed (sail panel, etc.), would it be possible to push this dent out, or is this the type of thing that needs stud gun?

I'm not capable of either, just wondering. Looks like less than $1000 repair is my guess.

Texas car in Glassboro NJ. Currently sitting on 4 mismatched wheels in a dirt driveway taking on water through window sweeps.
 

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Ribbedroof

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That’s going to need pulltabs welded to it. Then the car anchored to the floor and a pull made while working the dent. Completed repair including refinishing will be well over 1000 dollars. Attempting to just pull the damp out without correcting the rearward movement of the jamb area is going to make things much much worse.
 
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doood

Amateur Mechanic
Sep 24, 2020
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That’s going to need pulltabs welded to it. Then the car anchored to the floor and a pull made while working the dent. Completed repair including refinishing will be well over 1000 dollars. Attempting to just pull the damp out without correcting the rearward movement of the jamb area is going to make things much much worse.
Good advice, man!

This is another story where kid has car on Dad's property and Dad backs into it when the windows are frosted. Was looking at the car yesterday. Besides the dent and an electrical short somewhere the car is in very good shape since from Texas. The dash is better than mine.

Car is for sale in zip code 08094 for $2k on Facebook marketplace. Has 305, 130k miles not running. I saw it yesterday.
 

57 Handyman

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Feb 6, 2017
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Because the door jam and skin edge are involved, trying to pull the dent with studs is going to require a LOT of effort and skill. Every one of those creases will require significant pulls. Because that area is a double sealed section of the body and not accessible from the back, the best way to fix this is to remove and replace the body skin. Depending on the skill of the body repair person, it certainly is not a $1000 job.
 
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doood

Amateur Mechanic
Sep 24, 2020
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Because the door jam and skin edge are involved, trying to pull the dent with studs is going to require a LOT of effort and skill. Every one of those creases will require significant pulls. Because that area is a double sealed section of the body and not accessible from the back, the best way to fix this is to remove and replace the body skin. Depending on the skill of the body repair person, it certainly is not a $1000 job.
Thanks. Saved me a nightmare.
 

ck80

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Feb 18, 2014
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Because the door jam and skin edge are involved, trying to pull the dent with studs is going to require a LOT of effort and skill. Every one of those creases will require significant pulls. Because that area is a double sealed section of the body and not accessible from the back, the best way to fix this is to remove and replace the body skin. Depending on the skill of the body repair person, it certainly is not a $1000 job.
That section of body is 100% accessible from the backside. You remove the rear sest, the quarter panel trim, the seatbelts and tensioner, then you remove the tin box that bolts in with small hex head bolts that the shoulder retractor bolts to. You then have 100% access from behind.

It would be work to repair for sure, but it's not inaccessible.
 
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08Malibu

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Feb 9, 2014
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Because the door jam and skin edge are involved, trying to pull the dent with studs is going to require a LOT of effort and skill. Every one of those creases will require significant pulls. Because that area is a double sealed section of the body and not accessible from the back, the best way to fix this is to remove and replace the body skin. Depending on the skill of the body repair person, it certainly is not a $1000 job.
If the quarter isn’t rusted, there’s no reason to cut and replace it. If it’s pulled correctly, most of that should come out.
 
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doood

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If the quarter isn’t rusted, there’s no reason to cut and replace it. If it’s pulled correctly, most of that should come out.
Yeah there's no rust. That's the appeal of the car. Currently has a puddle in the passenger side rear footwell because focker has no window sweeps. Still that floorpan isn't rotten - yet.
 

ck80

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Yeah there's no rust. That's the appeal of the car. Currently has a puddle in the passenger side rear footwell because focker has no window sweeps. Still that floorpan isn't rotten - yet.
If you know the owner, and you aren't going to buy it, they can keep the water from pooling if they knock out the tin plug in the floorboard. It's replaceable. At least it would turn a standing puddle of water to a occasional torrent that drains. Neither is good, but, one preserves the car more without spending $200 on new seals if you can't cover or garage it.

Also: more likely the drain passage by the climate box is plugged leading to water backing up and entering the firewall, than the dew seals.
 
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Ribbedroof

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Also: more likely the drain passage by the climate box is plugged leading to water backing up and entering the firewall, than the dew seals.
Or the firewall is rotted above the HVAC box, or the cowl seams are leaking. All common scenarios,, even in TX cars.
 
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