Derale electric Fan Controller

[Cams85GP]

Just wondering if anyone has used the Derale #16759 adjustable controller, and how they liked it. It’s the model with the push-in probe for the Rad.
I will also be running a switch into the car, which this kit has a wire already hooked up to override the probe.

I’ve never hooked a fan up before, so a few questions.

1) Instructions says wire POS Fan wire directly to POS battery terminal without a fuse, which I’m wondering if I should just throw an inline fuse in to be safe. The kit does have a wire going to NEG fan wire with a 30amp inline fuse.

2)running the POS wire to the alternator stud should be fine instead of directly to battery? Atleast until I get the proper side or top post

3)is there anything wrong with just tapping into a 12v switch wire already in use? Such as the one I have going to my fuel pump relay, or hell,even the wiper motor?

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[spongbob]

Just wondering if anyone has used the Derale #16759 adjustable controller, and how they liked it. It’s the model with the push-in probe for the Rad.
I will also be running a switch into the car, which this kit has a wire already hooked up to override the probe.

I’ve never hooked a fan up before, so a few questions.

1) Instructions says wire POS Fan wire directly to POS battery terminal without a fuse, which I’m wondering if I should just throw an inline fuse in to be safe. The kit does have a wire going to NEG fan wire with a 30amp inline fuse.

2)running the POS wire to the alternator stud should be fine instead of directly to battery? Atleast until I get the proper side or top post

3)is there anything wrong with just tapping into a 12v switch wire already in use? Such as the one I have going to my fuel pump relay, or hell,even the wiper motor?

View attachment 226599

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Your thinking like a factory tech now ...lol...

 

[Rt Jam]

You do not need 2 fuses in 1 circuit. Adding a fuse to the positive side of the fan would be protection only if the pos wire or the fan motor shorted to ground, not likely.

The constant hot should be connected to the battery. The sudden draw when the relay closes will best be suited to the battery which will act like a buffer for your electrical system.

Yellow can be connected to any switched source. It's just a signal wire.

Hope it's not too late for this advice but probe into the coolant is better. In the radiator fins will give a false reading when driving slow. The air flowing through the grille will keep the probe cool when the coolant is hot.

Chose your fan according to the fuse. Most fans will exceed 30 amps.

 

[Cams85GP]

You do not need 2 fuses in 1 circuit. Adding a fuse to the positive side of the fan would be protection only if the pos wire or the fan motor shorted to ground, not likely.

The constant hot should be connected to the battery. The sudden draw when the relay closes will best be suited to the battery which will act like a buffer for your electrical system.

Yellow can be connected to any switched source. It's just a signal wire.

Hope it's not too late for this advice but probe into the coolant is better. In the radiator fins will give a false reading when driving slow. The air flowing through the grille will keep the probe cool when the coolant is hot.

Chose your fan according to the fuse. Most fans will exceed 30 amps.

Nope not too late. I appreciate the response.

I did an LS swap, so both coolant ports are being used(gauge in the car, sensor for the MSD). I will see how the probe does, I guess the only other option is add a section to the return hose and thread a probe into that. Main reason I’m using the override switch inside the car.

 

[Rt Jam]

You can remove the water pump housing. Drill and tap it for an NPT thread. Put the sensor in there. Is your radiator aluminum?

Set the Off temperature to higher than thermostat temp. This will prevent the fan from running while you are on the highway and also prevent the fan from blowing on a radiator that is not flowing due to a closed thermostat.