Drag Racing Front Suspension

[motorheadmike]

I've got some stock upper arms with polygraphite bushings and some brand new in box .5 inch taller proforged upper ball joints I'd ship in the US for $130, but I"ve never had good luck shipping to Canada.

He can head to Ogdensburg. It is what all the top cats in Ottawa do. 😉

 

[Clarmo]

He can head to Ogdensburg. It is what all the top cats in Ottawa do. 😉

I deal with a brokerage company in Prescott that'll bring stuff across. But I did the UPS Store in Ogdensburg for many years too!

Thanks guys for the ideas. I'm going to ponder a little more and and wait till I can do the UMI stuff.

 

[motorheadmike]

I deal with a brokerage company in Prescott that'll bring stuff across. But I did the UPS Store in Ogdensburg for many years too!

Thanks guys for the ideas. I'm going to ponder a little more and and wait till I can do the UMI stuff.

NAC Logistics is the cat's *ss for the logistic holding gig (they are part of the Kinek group) - way better than UPS.

 

[Clarmo]

NAC Logistics is the cat's *ss for the logistic holding gig (they are part of the Kinek group) - way better than UPS.

Strader Farris International, They are great as well.

 

[UNGN]

I have my 2+2 on Jackstands in the Garage. It has tall upper and lower BJ and -1 degree camber at it's lowered right height (top of 26" tire is 1" above bottom of fender).

At full droop, there is almost no negative camber.. way less than a stock G-body suspension and It's starting out with MORE static negative camber than a stock G-body suspension.

 

[Clarmo]

I have my 2+2 on Jackstands in the Garage. It has tall upper and lower BJ and -1 degree camber at it's lowered right height (top of 26" tire is 1" above bottom of fender).

At full droop, there is almost no negative camber.. way less than a stock G-body suspension and It's starting out with MORE static negative camber than a stock G-body suspension.

So your car at ride height starts out at -1 deg. and you raise the car fully and the camber swing actually goes + to almost 0 deg. ?
Do you have the original style control arms on your car too? If not...does the suspension travel as far as a stock G-Body?

 

[UNGN]

So your car at ride height starts out at -1 deg. and you raise the car fully and the camber swing actually goes + to almost 0 deg. ?
Do you have the original style control arms on your car too? If not...does the suspension travel as far as a stock G-Body?

I took a picture of the front tire at full droop:

Here it is at static ride height:

It has about -1 degree of static negative, but it looks like a little more due to the caster and the wheels being turned

The wheels might actually be a little positive at full droop. I'll throw a level on it tomorrow. They seem to be pretty straight compared to stock.

I have adjustable uppers and stock lower arms. The Adjustable uppers are mainly for max caster (and getting rid of all of the shimming). With the wheel straight I don't think they have much of an effect on the camber.

 

[Clarmo]

I took a picture of the front tire at full droop:

View attachment 69456

Here it is at static ride height:

View attachment 69457

It has about -1 degree of static negative, but it looks like a little more due to the caster and the wheels being turned

The wheels might actually be a little positive at full droop. I'll throw a level on it tomorrow. They seem to be pretty straight compared to stock.

I have adjustable uppers and stock lower arms. The Adjustable uppers are mainly for max caster (and getting rid of all of the shimming). With the wheel straight I don't think they have much of an effect on the camber.

I own an automotive shop with an alignment rack so it is very easy form me to see the camber swing and toe changes while it's on the rack.
I've just replaced the upper control arms with the 8" tubular ones and installed 1/2" longer uppers. That did make a big difference in the camber swing (not perfect) but not so much for the toe out issue. I know the longer lower is the change that will help the toe out. I just did the top first because of availability of parts and time. I'm leaving today to got to the track for the weekend.
My question is should I use 1/2" or 1" longer Lowers?
Right now at static ride height I have the Toe in at + 1/2" with the wheels up they are toed out -1/2".
I'm going to order solid lower control arm bushings with roller bearings and lower ball joints next week.
Also... I was hoping these changes will get rid of the tire wobble when they hit the ground?

Thanks

 

[UNGN]

The 1/2" longer lowers should help a lot with the toe changes. We run a race with 3 actual jumps on course (1 is even off camber) and I notice no bump steer, either when it happens or re-watching it back on video.

We also have the solid greasable UB machine lower bushings and recommend them.