Dynamat DynaTape

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I found it to be quite effective. It is frustration trying to find the screw holes after layering everything in Dynomat, but it is worth the time and money to do this if you are taking your interior out. I have even put it on several layers around speakers and such. In fact, on door panels, I put it on the inside of the outside skin, then what I can reach of the inside of the inside, then behind the door panel. I couldn't really hear anything coming through the panel, all the noise then came either through the glass, or the seals.
 
FE3X CLONE said:
1979ratrod said:
wow man looks good, how much did the mat in the car cost? and has anyone used any substitutes?

There's quite a few "cheap" kits on Ebay that are pretty much just a roofing material you can buy at any hardware store. One product is called Peal-n-Seal.
For the floor and trunk of a vehicle this stuff works great and doesn't do too bad on doors however forget trying to use the cheap stuff overhead. When it gets hot in the summer, it will start to fall.

Oh and somewhere else to try sound deadening is the front fenders. 😉 While I had mine apart I coated the backside of the fenders with 3 coats of the VB-1X and a layer of the 80mil sound deadening material. They went from sounding like a tin can when you tap on the fender to feeling like your tapping on a piece of granite. 🙂


x2 on the roofing material, got that tip from a friend who owns one of the bigger car stereo shops.....thanks for the heads up about using it overhead tho, I was going to put some up there to stop the tin noise when it rains, I'll break the budget and get some of the "good" stuff
 
83 hurst-olds said:
I found it to be quite effective. It is frustration trying to find the screw holes after layering everything in Dynamat, but it is worth the time and money to do this if you are taking your interior out. I have even put it on several layers around speakers and such. In fact, on door panels, I put it on the inside of the outside skin, then what I can reach of the inside of the inside, then behind the door panel. I couldn't really hear anything coming through the panel, all the noise then came either through the glass, or the seals.
Leave the screws in the holes , apply the Mat ,then use a razor knife to cut across the screw heads. Then remove the screws.
 
On a side note, if you look at my trunk picture, I'm thinking about "squaring" the trunk up a bit (to cover some of the Dynamat in the rear quarters and protect them from stuff rolling in the trunk). Looks like I'll have to make a cardboard template and then cut 1/4in plywood to fit. Likely cover it with black carpet. I looked into Buick Grand National and Monte SS trunk kits, but was told they won't work on a 1979 Monte. I would likely cut for the curve of the fender well and also attach to the brace the is on each side (the one on the pass side is how the stock jack is secured). I don't plan on having the jack in there. Anybody have any experience or advice?
 

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If you have ANY experience with fiberglass, you can also use cardboard and cut out the shape you want and then make a thin lightweight fiberglass mould of the area you are wanting to cover up. Maybe this is a good time to add a small subwoofer to the trunk and just fiberglass it in and neaten everything up while they are at it.
 
83hurst-olds, I never have used fiberglass, but maybe now I can do some experimenting! 😀
If it looks bad, I can still use 1/4in plywood. How thick of a fiberglass piece would I need to make? 1/4? I bet there is a youtube vid or something that shows the basics. This tould be a fairly flat shape following the curve of the fender well and the lip of the trunk opening. Fiberglass 101!
 
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