82355supreme said:
What type of heads are those? How much do they cost? When the engine is "slowly revving" as you said, how is it comparable to an engine with stock heads?
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What type of heads are those? How much do they cost? When the engine is "slowly revving" as you said, how is it comparable to an engine with stock heads?
Dart Iron Eagle heads. About $700/pair thru www.aeroheadracing.com A stock headed engine of this age bracket is also "out of air" by then. Like I said before, for the extra $100 you're getting ALOT better set of heads than Vortecs & are capable of valve lift beyond .500 Check this link out, you'll learn something.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... ndex4.html
AND
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... acing.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techa ... ndex4.html
AND
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... acing.html
82355supreme said:
Thank you very much for those links. I see what you mean about the Dart Iron Eagle heads. They definitely seem like the way to go.
For the money they can't be beat!! I have the Iron Eagles, & I'll tell you that the numbers that are posted on my signature are "pre-Iron Eagle" Those numbers were with stock junk 76cc 1.72/1.5" valves
Add about 50-60 ponies & 20-30 ft lbs to that now with the Iron Eagles. :wink:
Add about 50-60 ponies & 20-30 ft lbs to that now with the Iron Eagles. :wink:
A good power combo is 9.5-10.0:1 compression, a cam with .480-.510 lift & 230* duration, heads... you know, a Edelbrock, Weiand, or Holley DUAL plane intake, 650 Holley Double Pump carb & a good HEI Distributor to light the fire.
By the way, I have the Dart 180s.
By the way, I have the Dart 180s.
It's looks like alot of questions and answers are towards the engine of the car but don't forget the rearend! If you have some rearend gear ratio like 2.56 or worse, you may never be happy with your around town performance. I had spent alot of money and made some bad choices on my engine in high school and wasn't really happy with it. Then for 100 dollars I bought another rearend that already had 3.73's in it and junked my old 2.56's and I was much happier with that 100 dollar purchase than the thousand plus I had spent on too big of a cam, machine shop bill blah, blah, blah.
Is a 2.56 what I've got in my GP? I have the 3.8 V6 and 3 speed auto. All i know it is SUCKS!! lol. When I do my swap, even if I only got 305 for now, I'm definately getting a 3.73 or higher..
To swap a rear end (as in if I find a good 3.73), do you just drop the old and bolt on the new one? I couldn't really see it being any more extansive than that...
Do I have to solely look for G body rears, or is any G body plug and play?
Sorry for thread jacking, I'm just curious...
To swap a rear end (as in if I find a good 3.73), do you just drop the old and bolt on the new one? I couldn't really see it being any more extansive than that...
Do I have to solely look for G body rears, or is any G body plug and play?
Sorry for thread jacking, I'm just curious...
Yes a better rear gear is needed also, 3.42--3.73 As is a converter with a stall speed of 2200-2800
To swap gears is a little more involved than just unbolting old & bolting in new. Swapping in say a Monte Carlo SS entire assembly (housing,axles,brakes,etc.), which the Overdrive years came with 3.73's, in some cases would be just as fast as doing a gear only swap.
However not all were a positraction unit. Posi was an option, but the 3.73 ratio was standard.
To swap gears is a little more involved than just unbolting old & bolting in new. Swapping in say a Monte Carlo SS entire assembly (housing,axles,brakes,etc.), which the Overdrive years came with 3.73's, in some cases would be just as fast as doing a gear only swap.
However not all were a positraction unit. Posi was an option, but the 3.73 ratio was standard.
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