Electric fan conversion temp. question

[80ELCAMINOFLAKE]

I would not suggest running a 160 t-stat....you will get a much better and more complete fuel atomization if you run between 190-200. If you run too cool you'll use way more fuel and it'll build up a lot more carbon deposits. Running an engine too cool is not a good thing.

Oh i see, ok i think i will get a 180, they all the same price at autozone 11.99 lol

 

[FE3X CLONE]

Running a 160 or 180 is not going to hurt your engine. At least not any appreciable amount. I ran them for years in both daily driver's and my performance cars.

Yes, a hotter thermostat will help aid in fuel atomization but it is also detrimental to power. You do have a trade off here. If you want more power you need a cooler/denser fuel/air. If you want better fuel economy, you need better atomization.

 

[bill]

Running a 160 or 180 is not going to hurt your engine. At least not any appreciable amount. I ran them for years in both daily driver's and my performance cars.

Yes, a hotter thermostat will help aid in fuel atomization but it is also detrimental to power. You do have a trade off here. If you want more power you need a cooler/denser fuel/air. If you want better fuel economy, you need better atomization.

I think in racing applications, this would be correct..... but for most street applications, it makes better sense to increase fuel atomization....I think the power gain from cooler/denser f/a mixture will not make up for the loss in economy...just my opinion

 

[Insubordination]

Thanks for all the informative posts. I love a constructive debate.

My engine is stock except for the intake manifold. So I will use the thermostat that is specified for the engine (195 F). I don't have much power to speak of, and don't need worse fuel economy with Norwegian gas prices 🙂.

Think I will take Gmachinzz' advise and get a 212-202 temp switch. His input was in accordance with my own reasoning, so thats my best bet.

 

[L92 OLDS]

My research indicates that an OE Grand National fan switch (3053190) is on at 210* and off at 200*. These were the crossover numbers according to the interwebz. Hope it helps:
AC Delco 15-4229
B/W TFS1
STD TS-147
Niehoff DR137S
Echlin FS110

Thanks for your homework driven. I found similar info but not all part numbers I found referenced were correct. Some of the part numbers are for a newer style sending unit with 2 terminals and variable impedance. The correct part will have (1) terminal and go high or low depending on condition. The GM PN 3053190 is correct and Auto Zone sells a Santech replacement for it for $10. You can also find them in the salvage yard across several 88' - 92' GM vehicle platforms. I need to go to the yard today for some other stuff so I'll me looking. Hopefully I'll find something because I need the unique plug required.

 

[84cutspreme]

I was always under the impression that hotter engine temps put out better performance too. Everyone I have talked to says the 160 stat won't be bad at all. The other thing to consider like you guys were all saying about colder denser fuel vs. hotter fuel. I just want to point out that it boils down to performance in my opinion because if you notice all the intake manifolds for racier applications have air gap to help get colder denser fuel mixture whereas the lower end intakes have exhaust crossover to heat up fuel to get engine choke off sooner and help with drive-ability. I was also told that the colder mixture would tend to keep car running very rich and even cause hesitation, the hotter mixture would get better fuel economy and be more suited for low-end torque engines.

 

[bill]

It goes without saying...but I'll do it anyway.....Every change made to an engine from stock brings advantages/disadvantages to the table. The motors were built to run on the street and to give as little trouble as possible. When you start changing things, you create more possibilities for power, but you also create more possibilities for trouble...overheating, poor fuel economy...etc. As it has been stated here on this forum many times, the best way to go is to ask yourself what your end goal is and build/alter the engine to meet that goal. Many people want more power, but dont realize the problems that come with adding/changing parts or settings to get that power....and they dont understand why their car doesnt run cool anymore in traffic, or stalls out after idling for a few minutes...etc. I tend to stick with stock motors that make plenty of torque/power from the factory so that I dont have to alter them and compromise on reliability....because the fact is, most of us are not exclusively racing our cars on the track...most of the time, we are just driving them like any other daily....

Can you make lots of power and still have a daily driver? Sure, if you can afford it!.....Just my opinion.....

 

[richp85elco]

so is a difference between the actual fan switch (this is the GN switch btw but same applies to others)

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=ECHFS113_0365985426

and fan temp switch

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ready-Aire-...s&fits=Make:Buick&hash=item1c28e94261&vxp=mtr

is it me or are they the same part but they hike the price up just because they claim control the fans?

same applies to other switches that say on @ a certain temp and off at another....would either work?