External Fuel Pump stopped humming...engine stall and no start
- Thread starter Tynan918
- Start date
Couldn't I just run a temporary power from the battery to the fuel pump with a disconnect point somewhere ?
I cant tell where that wire from the fuse block input connects to the alternator. It appears to go into the field and feedback loop connector, it should be on the big wire from the alternator.
You need to see if your alternator still works. When it shorted out it might have damaged the alternator. See if there is about 14 volts at the battery when it is running if it is about 12 volts it's running off the battery.
Insulate and run that wire better and move it to the big terminal on the alternator or to the battery +.
You need to see if your alternator still works. When it shorted out it might have damaged the alternator. See if there is about 14 volts at the battery when it is running if it is about 12 volts it's running off the battery.
Insulate and run that wire better and move it to the big terminal on the alternator or to the battery +.
Ok i guess i see it might be connected to the alternator output stud still not 100% on that.
If it is there should still be 12 volts to that stud from the battery, if not you blew the fuseable link. Inspect the fuseable link if it is cooked you wont have an alternator till you fix it.
I would move that fuse block feed wire to the battery. so it is shorter and so it doesn't go through the fuseable link.
Battery is right there on that side of the car just 2 feet from the add on fuse block, right?
If it is there should still be 12 volts to that stud from the battery, if not you blew the fuseable link. Inspect the fuseable link if it is cooked you wont have an alternator till you fix it.
I would move that fuse block feed wire to the battery. so it is shorter and so it doesn't go through the fuseable link.
Battery is right there on that side of the car just 2 feet from the add on fuse block, right?
"Killed a fusible Link" , or maybe an inline fuse on the power side 12+ feed to the battery? Disconnect the plus and minus terminals on the pump and use jumper leads with gator clips on them to create a temporary circuit to another battery. If the pump goes Whirrrrr, then the problem is in your wiring. If not, then likely to be a dead pump, remove, dig hole in garden, bury corpse, offer words of condolence, and go get a new one that is heavier and better able to withstand vibration, road shock, and shitty living conditions.
Agree with El Cam about the alternator. At idle if charging it should show around 13.5-14 volts. Anything under 12.5 at idle and you've done the nasty to something internal. if that is the stock, as originally delivered alternator and it has had a heart attack, now would be a good time to check out heavier output unit. The more aftermarket baubles and trinkets you hang off your charging system, the stronger it needs to be to accommodate them. On my non G-Body G-Body I have a whole stack of circuit breakers, all of which are served by a #10 primary wire from the battery stud on the alternator and all of which have a specific sub system to protect.
Nick
Agree with El Cam about the alternator. At idle if charging it should show around 13.5-14 volts. Anything under 12.5 at idle and you've done the nasty to something internal. if that is the stock, as originally delivered alternator and it has had a heart attack, now would be a good time to check out heavier output unit. The more aftermarket baubles and trinkets you hang off your charging system, the stronger it needs to be to accommodate them. On my non G-Body G-Body I have a whole stack of circuit breakers, all of which are served by a #10 primary wire from the battery stud on the alternator and all of which have a specific sub system to protect.
Nick
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Man... You have an absolute rat's nest under your hood... That's a hazard, not just for what you're experiencing now... But it could end up burning the car down. If what you had running over your booster didn't even have electrical tape to cover the splice... Man, you've got problems. You really need to get that sorted out before you get much further, otherwise it's never going to be done right, and electrical issues are always a pain to sort out... They don't need any help from that mess you've got going on there.
Yea the alternator reads 14.7 at idle, alternator charges and works.
I just ran a wire from the pump to underneath my steering column, and another wire straight from the battery to underneath my steering column, and added male and female connectors to connect them and it powers my fuel pump...disconnect the connectors and it completely disables my fuel...anti-theft.
Test drove it last night for a couple of miles and back...today I'm going for a longer stretch.
Currently no fusible link in that wiring but I have a Bussman fusible link I can throw somewhere in it if need be.
Yeah, fuse that line, as close to the battery as possible. Now. Or keep a fire extinguisher on hand.
RE anti-theft, an inconspicuously located toggle switch in the circuit has the same effect and avoids messing with connectors and connections. Reference comments previously made concerning the desirability of clean, well laid out and insulated wiring harnesses with correct gauge wiring and crimped/soldered terminals. The next to most helpless feeling in the world is watching your ride burn down from an electrical fire that you can't put out.
Nick
Nick
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