Factory rear sway bar installation parts.

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Before boxing my lower control arms, I tack welded in a few pieces of pipe to keep them rigid. I still have the original supports somewhere.
 
Splurge just a dollar or two more and get new capscrews for those arms. Depending on the mfgr they might be drilled for SAE fractional instead of metric.
Also, if you get the complete set of upper and lower control arms, like the set that I purchased from Hotchkiss, they come with the poly bushings for the ears on the differential housing. The factory bushings that currently reside in those ears are as old as the car they come in. It will take some serious encouragement to dig them out and install the new ones.

When I did mine, I had to drill out the rubber in multiple places to be able to first punch out the inner sleeve and then collapse and extract the outer shell. After that I used a wire wheel on a drill motor to clean the ears out to clean metal. The new sleeves got stuffed into the freezer and left there to cold soak. (Mine actually lived in my downstairs freezer for around 10 !! years before I finally got around to doing the exchange) The colder they are, the better/easier they will drive into place but not with a large hammer. I used the sleeves from a ball joint installer as well as the installer "C" clamp to push mine into place. With the heavy clamp you can use a breaker bar and go manual or opt for air and use an impact gun.



Nick
 
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Splurge just a dollar or two more and get new capscrews for those arms. Depending on the mfgr they might be drilled for SAE fractional instead of metric.
Also, if you get the complete set of upper and lower control arms, like the set that I purchased from Hotchkiss, they come with the poly bushings for the ears on the differential housing. The factory bushings that currently reside in those ears are as old as the car they come in. It will take some serious encouragement to dig them out and install the new ones.

When I did mine, I had to drill out the rubber in multiple places to be able to first punch out the inner sleeve and then collapse and extract the outer shell. After that I used a wire wheel on a drill motor to clean the ears out to clean metal. The new sleeves got stuffed into the freezer and left there to cold soak. (Mine actually lived in my downstairs freezer for around 10 !! years before I finally got around to doing the exchange) The colder they are, the better/easier they will drive into place but not with a large hammer. I used the sleeves from a ball joint installer as well as the installer "C" clamp to push mine into place. With the heavy clamp you can use a breaker bar and go manual or opt for air and use an impact gun.



Nick
I used a ball joint press from Harbor freight to do mine. Beat using the drill or pair of big sockets.
 
Local yards in central Indiana didn't have anything that wasn't rusted to nothing.
Any Monte SS would have them if you look in the salvage yard. Would work for any HD suspension parts F41 braces you can bounce off any G Body to pick and choose.
I have a very low tolerance for rust and I couldn't find anything in the local yards that wasn't too far gone.
 
Yeah, that's where my ball joint kit came from too. Still had to encourage them to vacate the premises.


Nick
 
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Splurge just a dollar or two more and get new capscrews for those arms. Depending on the mfgr they might be drilled for SAE fractional instead of metric.
Also, if you get the complete set of upper and lower control arms, like the set that I purchased from Hotchkiss, they come with the poly bushings for the ears on the differential housing. The factory bushings that currently reside in those ears are as old as the car they come in. It will take some serious encouragement to dig them out and install the new ones.

When I did mine, I had to drill out the rubber in multiple places to be able to first punch out the inner sleeve and then collapse and extract the outer shell. After that I used a wire wheel on a drill motor to clean the ears out to clean metal. The new sleeves got stuffed into the freezer and left there to cold soak. (Mine actually lived in my downstairs freezer for around 10 !! years before I finally got around to doing the exchange) The colder they are, the better/easier they will drive into place but not with a large hammer. I used the sleeves from a ball joint installer as well as the installer "C" clamp to push mine into place. With the heavy clamp you can use a breaker bar and go manual or opt for air and use an impact gun.



Nick
Someone bought my old Toyota project so the build has begun. (I'd planned to sell it next spring and build next late next year but the offer was too good).

It's getting a 454 and M22(hopefully). I'll be getting a new rear end to hold the power so thankfully I won't have to deal with those. I was thinking about having a shop do those 2 bushings and save myself the hassle.

I had an 84 Regal in high school and I took off the rear end and rebuilt it in my basement. It was enough of a pain with the axle off the car.
 
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Local yards in central Indiana didn't have anything that wasn't rusted to nothing.

I have a very low tolerance for rust and I couldn't find anything in the local yards that wasn't too far gone.
Google “ used g-body parts”. Also I think he’s called ElCamino Central in California and Dixie Restoration ( one of the sponsors) they have some used stuff as well as they may know who is good for used parts. Unless you can find someone on here that knows good used parts people and/ or have them
 
"I took off the rear end and rebuilt it in my basement. It was enough of a pain with the axle off the car".


Yup. Pictures posted of mine somewhere on the board. I even created a dolly to move it around out of some 2x4's and two of my wheel dollies. Made things a whole lot simpler when the time came to stuff it back under the frame and rehang it.


Nick
 
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