Fan Speed

[Jim H.]

ok here is the problem all I have is high speed on the blower motor and my AC compressor wont engage and it has freon now all the fuses are good and I replaced the blower relay any ideas. I have the books for the car and so I'm getting ready to look and see if there is something I missed but any help would b great.

 

[hereiam]

Are you sure that the a/c is actually full? In most cases there is a sight glass and if there is air bubbles passing the sight glass it needs more freon. You can also check that the a/c will start by shorting out the plug. If it engages when shorted then it is low on freon. Dont know what car you are working on but in a lot of cases there is a resistor block that is in line that is used for the speed control of the blower motor. Check that and you may find that a couple of the resistor coils are burned out.

 

[Jim H.]

This is on my 84 H/O i did the complete conversion on the ac from r12 to r134a had it done professionally then all of a sudden the fan speed except for high quite working and the ac wouldn't work checked the compressor by shorting out the green wire to the hot on the battery and it worked. Now just trying to figure out what next , i am getting power to the relay but nothing is telling it to make contact. Any ideas I am willing to try anything leaving for the power tour and want to have ac.


Thanks
Jim

 

[jociha]

Double V knows this area well so perhaps he can confirm this. I believe that if you are speaking of the relay mounted under the hood on the side of the A/C unit then this relay is controlled by the ECM. If so just connect the black wire with green stripe to the black wire with white stripe on this relay and take the ECM out of the picture. Tape off the other two wires in case they decide to work and short out to something.

 

[DoubleV]

Are you still running on the computer? Either way, I would check for corrosion on any of your connectors under the hood that pertain to the AC. There's one in particular that gets corroded easily and needs to be cleaned.

 

[Jim H.]

no not running on the computer cleaned all the electrical connections but let me ask you this would it b easier to hook the computer back up I already pulled the check engine light bulb would this solve my problem.

 

[hereiam]

the resistor block is usually mounted with 2 screw to the heater box. Sometimes under the hood but I think in your case it is behind the glove box. It is about 2"x3".

 

[DoubleV]

no not running on the computer cleaned all the electrical connections but let me ask you this would it b easier to hook the computer back up I already pulled the check engine light bulb would this solve my problem.

My personl view on that is I would've never taken it off the computer in the first place. Simply put, the CCC works and it works well as long as it's tuned right and you have all the pieces in place. Plus it looks stock and that's just cool in my book. If you still have all the required CCC stuff intact, I would hook it back up so you can have a nice non-butchered factory setup. The only good reasons to delete the CCC system are you're swapping in an engine that won't work well with it or the CCC wiring has been mutilated/hacked by some butcher making it too much a PITA to fix it all correctly.

So IMO, I would hook your CCC stuff back up. If you can't for whatever reason, then just bypass the ECM controlled relay by splicing the wires the way jociha mentioned. That should do it unless there's another issue.

 

[Jim H.]

I can hook the computer back up just that it will not do a lot considering I had a custom carb made and went with an msd distributor and coil and no emissions so I will see if hooking the computer works just didn't think it would affect the fan speed on the climate control part of the car will let you guys know if it works. I didn't cut out any of the wires just incase I wanted to put it all back original.

 

[DoubleV]

The CCC doesn't effect fan speed. It controls the AC compressor though.

It's hard to say if reinstalling all the CCC stuff would be better for you at your point since you already spent the money on a non CCC carb/distributor amd ( presumably ) a converter lockup kit, but if you still have all of your CCC parts and it ran fine with them, that's the route I would go. You can always sell your other carb/dist.

My 350 was running on the CCC system. In fact it was built specifically to run perfect with it. The only reason I deleted it was because I was becoming frusterated with a minor tuning issue and I wanted to swap on an RPM intake manifold in my quest for more performance. In the end, my tuning issue and lack of expected performance was the fault of the $hit engine build from the crooks at Rocket Racing. If it weren't for that, my engine would still be running on the CCC system.