few questions about making custom stuff for the cutlass

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Do you realize that these are movie cars and are not made for functionality at all?
 
Movie car or not, those rear braking systems are actually functional. They employ a separate master cylinder that you can see in both cars to work only the rear brakes. The trick is figuring out how to plumb in the lines so that the rear brakes aren't totally separate from the function of the pedal during normal driving.
Since these are stunt cars, I wouldn't be suprised if they were separate, meaning that the pedal only controls the front, and the hand lever only controls the rear, so that it is probably not the best idea for a street car.
 
I got a cousin that does movie tech stuff in vancouver.........they use cars with a split brake pedal, still using the two master cylinders principile. the brake pedal is actually two seperate pedals that can be used independantly, or as one big pedal. the proportion of brake front to back is similar to normal braking, just a little heavier on the front than normal, so you can still lockem up if ya front brake only.

talked to a few stunt drivers myself and they say once you get the hang of it.....it kicks *ss over the oldschool e brake deal.

peace
 
Rally cars use handbrake setups like that, but the easiest way to do it would be to use the ebrake handle setup from a 3rd or 4th gen F body and hack out the parking brake pawl. That way it won't lock. Add a cool looking shifter handle and you have the cosmetic equivalent but with less braking than a pure hydraulic system. It would also be cheaper than the hydraulic option as it is a junkyard and MIG welder solution.

Now if you have to have hydraulics, there should be systems available for rallying or drifting. Try magazines like Grassroots Motorsports Magazine for ads that might have the pieces you want. Either that, or run a dual circuit rear brake setup that has 2 masters. The problem with that though is it might back feed through the master cylinder somehow and depress the pedal (I am not 100% sure though, but post it as a thing to look at). Wilwood offers a small master that can be made to work for the rears in this case.
 
Since you are not going to need to pass and inspection (NHRA), I cage is possible.

Make 2 hoops, one where you see it and one further back. Kinda like doing what they did up front to the back.

Don't run a crossbar, if you hit something a rear passenger will get a face full of rollbar.

Also put pads on everything.It would not be "legal" but proper 5 point restraints in the back would be good idea.

Check out VW offroad and roundy roundy places for a cheap "cutting" brake.

They make a split handle that would work really well for what you want to do.
 
If you want to hang the rear out, wouldn't it be better to be able to lock the front tires? That way you could cause the rear to swing out, kinda like a low speed drift. If you lock up the rears, all you get is the ability to skid.

If that is the case, no e-brake set-up will work and a hydraulic system is required. Unless... You could rig-up a set of rear calipers from an old car with rear disks, as fronts. I think some of the older cars still used a cable e-brake. However, it would limit your caliper size and require allot of fab.

How about mount an adjustable proportioning valve inside the car? When you want to hang the rear out, change the valving so the front brakes get all of the pressure. Instead of adding pressure, control where the pressure goes.
 
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