Finally make up my mind. Fast 85 anyone?

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Grinder1989

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 12, 2008
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That's my 85. It was my first car, and I plan on keeping it. After putting my new engine in my truck, driving my car.......well it sucks.

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My car is way too slow and actually looks good for it's age. I just turned over 60K miles. The car needs a paint job and is generally rust free. I want to put in a 455 or 403 or whatever engine really, that I can use my factory AC and power steering on. I have a turbo 400 lined up for a transmission and it will get a shift kit put in it. The rear end is my main concern. I need to know if I have an 8.5" 10 bolt or not, and what should I do about a posi? I'll be putting a fiberglass hood on it when the time comes. Any suggestions, tips or parts would be greatly appreciated and I'm looking to do this job right so please help. I need something to run good and be fast but keep in mind this is my daily driver, I don't need to lift the front wheels off the ground, but I'd enjoy it 🙂.
 
No on the 8.5 10 bolt unless it's a 442. As for a bolt in engine, a 403 will bolt in place of the 307. The 455 is also an easy swap, but it is a little taller. There are plenty of guys on this forum who have done these swaps and I am sure they will chime in here. Look around at some of the other threads and you are bound to find some useful info on making such a swap work. There are people here with engines swapped in from all of the different GM divisions.

I also have an 85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham ( I assume yours is a Brougham by the trim), and yes. The stock engine did surely suck. I put a Chevy 355 in mine and also upgraded the suspension and gearing so that now it is a much nicer thing to drive. They are nice cars in every way but mechanically. Happily, that is the easiest thing to fix.
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
No on the 8.5 10 bolt unless it's a 442. As for a bolt in engine, a 403 will bolt in place of the 307. The 455 is also an easy swap, but it is a little taller. There are plenty of guys on this forum who have done these swaps and I am sure they will chime in here. Look around at some of the other threads and you are bound to find some useful info on making such a swap work. There are people here with engines swapped in from all of the different GM divisions.

Ok, so what should I do about the rearend? 403...Is that a BB or a SB? Can I still use my factory AC? I have a Turbo 400 transmission, is there anything special about installing that?
 
Grinder1989 said:
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
No on the 8.5 10 bolt unless it's a 442. As for a bolt in engine, a 403 will bolt in place of the 307. The 455 is also an easy swap, but it is a little taller. There are plenty of guys on this forum who have done these swaps and I am sure they will chime in here. Look around at some of the other threads and you are bound to find some useful info on making such a swap work. There are people here with engines swapped in from all of the different GM divisions.

Ok, so what should I do about the rearend? 403...Is that a BB or a SB? Can I still use my factory AC? I have a Turbo 400 transmission, is there anything special about installing that?

For the rearend, lots of us keep the 7.5, but not the stock gearing. On sticky tires, it will die a quick, cruel death. On street tires, it will live for a while.For a transmission, I would use a built TH 200 4R. A TH 400 is overkill and uses too much power for a mild build that doesn't need the strength. The 403 is an Olds short deck engine, just like a 307. I hesitate to use small block and big block with the Olds engine simply because there isn't much difference between them. It's more like a B or RB wedge Chrysler kind of difference, not a small vs big Chevy difference.
 
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
For the rearend, lots of us keep the 7.5, but not the stock gearing. On sticky tires, it will die a quick, cruel death. On street tires, it will live for a while.For a transmission, I would use a built TH 200 4R. A TH 400 is overkill and uses too much power for a mild build that doesn't need the strength. The 403 is an Olds short deck engine, just like a 307. I hesitate to use small block and big block with the Olds engine simply because there isn't much difference between them. It's more like a B or RB wedge Chrysler kind of difference, not a small vs big Chevy difference.

Ah excuse my ignorance, I'm a Chevy guy 😳 I suppose I could get a 200 4R but I would prefer my 400 because of wanting at least 400 horses at the crank. My 350 runs great in my truck and I estimate it at around 350 horsepower at the crank. I want my car to do 400 or 500 horse, preferably at the wheels. :lol: But a 403 sounds like what I'm after. Is there another rear end option that isn't going to cost me $2,500?
 
Grinder1989 said:
85 Cutlass Brougham said:
For the rearend, lots of us keep the 7.5, but not the stock gearing. On sticky tires, it will die a quick, cruel death. On street tires, it will live for a while.For a transmission, I would use a built TH 200 4R. A TH 400 is overkill and uses too much power for a mild build that doesn't need the strength. The 403 is an Olds short deck engine, just like a 307. I hesitate to use small block and big block with the Olds engine simply because there isn't much difference between them. It's more like a B or RB wedge Chrysler kind of difference, not a small vs big Chevy difference.

Ah excuse my ignorance, I'm a Chevy guy 😳 I suppose I could get a 200 4R but I would prefer my 400 because of wanting at least 400 horses at the crank. My 350 runs great in my truck and I estimate it at around 350 horsepower at the crank. I want my car to do 400 or 500 horse, preferably at the wheels. :lol: But a 403 sounds like what I'm after. Is there another rear end option that isn't going to cost me $2,500?

An 8.5 should not cost $2,500, maybe $1000. Here is a 403 build that was just mentioned on another forum, it looks like it would be a perfect street engine. http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=56885
 
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