Fix my 8.5 or Ford 9inch that I found
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Re: Ford 9inch, "Direct Bolt In", tell me what to ask!
I put glitter in there as a joke!....Lol honestly I have no idea best of luck!
I put glitter in there as a joke!....Lol honestly I have no idea best of luck!
Re: Ford 9inch, "Direct Bolt In", tell me what to ask!
I wouldn't be worried. Some fine dust in the oil is normal. Expecially if this is the first oil change after a rebuild.
When I put my 9" in, I took the Ford diff and an old stock diff (junkyard) to the shop and they just moved all the stock brackets to the new diff, and narrowed the ford to the same as the original. At the same time, they raised the upper 4-link eyes (drag race mod) and I boxed all the suspension arms and installed Polygraphit bushings.
I still have the '78 ford crewcab rear drum brakes (came on the ford 9") and they work great. I didn't even have to change the proportioning valve. I would like to put the bigger calipers on the front, though.
The rear U-joint was interesting. I bought a stock G-body U-joint and a u-joint for the truck the diff came from, and found out they use the same cross, just have to move 2 caps from one u-joint to the other, and you now have a rear u-joint and a spare.
khan0165 said:
I wouldn't be worried. Some fine dust in the oil is normal. Expecially if this is the first oil change after a rebuild.
When I put my 9" in, I took the Ford diff and an old stock diff (junkyard) to the shop and they just moved all the stock brackets to the new diff, and narrowed the ford to the same as the original. At the same time, they raised the upper 4-link eyes (drag race mod) and I boxed all the suspension arms and installed Polygraphit bushings.
I still have the '78 ford crewcab rear drum brakes (came on the ford 9") and they work great. I didn't even have to change the proportioning valve. I would like to put the bigger calipers on the front, though.
The rear U-joint was interesting. I bought a stock G-body U-joint and a u-joint for the truck the diff came from, and found out they use the same cross, just have to move 2 caps from one u-joint to the other, and you now have a rear u-joint and a spare.
Re: Ford 9inch, "Direct Bolt In", tell me what to ask!
it's only a couple - 3 hour job to thro in a new clutch pack and to switch out the gears. Too bad your not closer, I have the 7.5 rear end complete with oil and brakes that you could borrow and tho in while you do your 8.5. Your driveshaft is an inch shorter than a driveshaft for a 7.5 but it will still work, I'm used a GN drivshaft with a 7.5 for a few days.
khan0165 said:
it's only a couple - 3 hour job to thro in a new clutch pack and to switch out the gears. Too bad your not closer, I have the 7.5 rear end complete with oil and brakes that you could borrow and tho in while you do your 8.5. Your driveshaft is an inch shorter than a driveshaft for a 7.5 but it will still work, I'm used a GN drivshaft with a 7.5 for a few days.
Re: Ford 9inch, "Direct Bolt In", tell me what to ask!
so yesterday, I took off the cover on the 8.5 to to do a general visual inspection and see what I'm working with...
... This differential has a old style Eaton unit, with S spring.
like this
can someone give me some info on this? Is this still a rebuildable system? Can someone help me figure out how to check which parts are worn, and what I should replace? Help with partnumbers would be great too.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
thanks!
so yesterday, I took off the cover on the 8.5 to to do a general visual inspection and see what I'm working with...
... This differential has a old style Eaton unit, with S spring.
like this
can someone give me some info on this? Is this still a rebuildable system? Can someone help me figure out how to check which parts are worn, and what I should replace? Help with partnumbers would be great too.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
thanks!
Re: Ford 9inch, "Direct Bolt In", tell me what to ask!
something like this, I did this while it was on the car though
[youtube]LObfebayp6Y&feature=related[/youtube]
check for wear on the ring and pinion gear, for right now, just check the backlash and make sure that was set right, the rear wasnt howling or making noise was it?khan0165 said:so yesterday, I took off the cover on the 8.5 to to do a general visual inspection and see what I'm working with...
... This differential has a old style Eaton unit, with S spring.
like this
can someone give me some info on this? Is this still a rebuildable system? Can someone help me figure out how to check which parts are worn, and what I should replace? Help with partnumbers would be great too.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
thanks!
something like this, I did this while it was on the car though
[youtube]LObfebayp6Y&feature=related[/youtube]
Re: Ford 9inch, "Direct Bolt In", tell me what to ask!
that is the old style, I was able to remove and inspect the clutch pack on my 8.2 without have to remove the carrier or the crown. It is rebuildable, the large keyways cut in the carriers are where the clutch packs are, you can see the tabs in the picture, one pack on each side of the carrier. There is no small retainer holding the packs together like on mine. All you do is remove the carrier by taking the 4 5/8 bolts off the caps. Mark the caps so they go on the same way you took them off. When you removed the carrier, you'll probably need a pry bar to get it out, make sure you keep the backlash shims in place so you can put them back exactly how they came out. Then you remove the crown gear, the bolts have a left handed thread. Next you remove the pin so you can remove the pinion shaft. Next the S spring is removed, then the two pinion gears can be removed with their thrust washers, next the side gears come out and then the clutch packs can be removed.
khan0165 said:so yesterday, I took off the cover on the 8.5 to to do a general visual inspection and see what I'm working with...
... This differential has a old style Eaton unit, with S spring.
like this
can someone give me some info on this? Is this still a rebuildable system? Can someone help me figure out how to check which parts are worn, and what I should replace? Help with partnumbers would be great too.
Can someone point me in the right direction?
thanks!
that is the old style, I was able to remove and inspect the clutch pack on my 8.2 without have to remove the carrier or the crown. It is rebuildable, the large keyways cut in the carriers are where the clutch packs are, you can see the tabs in the picture, one pack on each side of the carrier. There is no small retainer holding the packs together like on mine. All you do is remove the carrier by taking the 4 5/8 bolts off the caps. Mark the caps so they go on the same way you took them off. When you removed the carrier, you'll probably need a pry bar to get it out, make sure you keep the backlash shims in place so you can put them back exactly how they came out. Then you remove the crown gear, the bolts have a left handed thread. Next you remove the pin so you can remove the pinion shaft. Next the S spring is removed, then the two pinion gears can be removed with their thrust washers, next the side gears come out and then the clutch packs can be removed.
Like Crazcnuk said a little glitter in the oil is normal, what that is normally is just the clutch material wearing down. You can see your clutch stack on the right side of the carrier behind the side spider in your pic. Rebuilding the carrier is pretty easy and costs around $100 for the clutch kit, a deeper set of gears will run about $150-$200 new depending on the ratio and brand. Also be sure to use the posi additive. I just rebuilt my 8.5" Eaton posi out of my SS then stuck it in my truck's rear diff and replaced it with a Detroit Locker in the SS. The posi works good as new in the truck and now the SS has better grip too.
no gear howl or hum, no vibrations, nothing out of ordinary. The issue I am having is slip... at the track, on slicks, it will sometimes have trouble locking both wheels. And, on peel, I've noticed it sometimes does not leave even lengths of rubber marks on the road.
I'm don't know much, but it feels like bearings and other mechanical components are okay... But clutches are gone bad.
sorry I couldn't grab any pictures... but from visual inspection, gears seemed to have even wear, broad accross each tooth. Everything looked very clean, nothing out of the ordinary.
... I don't know what else to look for.
... I can open it up again to check more things. How do you check backlash? The video doesn't explain where to point the dial indicator...
is there anything else I can inspect while I'm there? ... without removing any components?
thanks again,
I'm don't know much, but it feels like bearings and other mechanical components are okay... But clutches are gone bad.
sorry I couldn't grab any pictures... but from visual inspection, gears seemed to have even wear, broad accross each tooth. Everything looked very clean, nothing out of the ordinary.
... I don't know what else to look for.
... I can open it up again to check more things. How do you check backlash? The video doesn't explain where to point the dial indicator...
is there anything else I can inspect while I'm there? ... without removing any components?
thanks again,
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