Fluid Film? Anyone use it?

[kustomkyle]

Come to think of it, we use this non-drying rust fighter from 3M at work. It's also a waxy type product, we occasionally spray it in body cavities that are prone to rusting. I'm wondering if it is essentially the same product?

That's the stuff I have/have used. Except my can is the 4 digit part# pre-"compliant" label. Shouldn't be any difference in that product, but when 3M changed the spray adhesive remover it was useless. Yes, I would suggest using that (after a rust converter product). I think the Fluid Film would be better for a show car to re-coat bare metal items to prevent flash surface rusting.

 

[pencero]

When I worked at the chemical plant I got in trouble for stopping the line to object that we were putting the same thing in a new label. Same product. I stretched a bottle of 'headlight restore' gel and put it on my windows a whole winter season when I saw how it was made. Same chemical as rainx mixed w gel = a product that lasted me 3 months - but of course the spray bottle is so watered down about 4 to 1 in comparison. Now that I saw how it was made (mixed) w the same chemical I would never buy the water-based version of rainx again. It has much less of the chemical in it. The gel helped it stick to my windows all winter until the spring sun was back out to burn it off. The Toyota 'fuel injector cleaner' I stopped the line for has a huge warning on it that it is only intended for dealership use specifically formulated for Toyotas - but it's the same exact fuel injector cleaner we put in the AC Delco fuel injector cleaner that says 'specifically formulated for GM cars' BS. It was the same thing.

 

[pencero]

that 3m stuff looks like it would be the perfect addition to a rear frame rail installation / sway bar on a g-body. Obviously climate is a factor in anything you do. I can use vaseline b/c my geography isn't dusty here in Indiana. When I was in New Mexico some people were using stuff like that 3m to protect their rear dif cover in an effort to try to prevent pieces of sand from getting in. Not sure how effective that really is. You would think in a desert climate CRC's would be totally irrelevant but it only takes a few offroad trips and a microscopic gap in your dif cover to get sand in the rear end.

 

[kustomkyle]

When I worked at the chemical plant I got in trouble for stopping the line to object that we were putting the same thing in a new label. Same product. I stretched a bottle of 'headlight restore' gel and put it on my windows a whole winter season when I saw how it was made. Same chemical as rainx mixed w gel = a product that lasted me 3 months - but of course the spray bottle is so watered down about 4 to 1 in comparison. Now that I saw how it was made (mixed) w the same chemical I would never buy the water-based version of rainx again. It has much less of the chemical in it. The gel helped it stick to my windows all winter until the spring sun was back out to burn it off. The Toyota 'fuel injector cleaner' I stopped the line for has a huge warning on it that it is only intended for dealership use specifically formulated for Toyotas - but it's the same exact fuel injector cleaner we put in the AC Delco fuel injector cleaner that says 'specifically formulated for GM cars' BS. It was the same thing.

That injector cleaner sounds like it may have been that GM Top End Cleaner that everyone still requests or tells others to use. But it isn't available anywhere anymore because of environmental legislation. But, CRC has just come out with a new version of sorts for direct injection vehicles where the exhaust valves carbon up severely because they are never exposed to fuel whatsoever. More onto the environmental side, it's gotten so severe I don't know how body shops operate anymore (as I previously left my job at one). Many products were so diluted, downsized, and became more expensive within a year or two recently that you were basically "peeing" in the wind trying to accomplish anything, to put it nicely. 3M seemed to be hit the hardest, so we started using more Norton and Transtar products. Waterbourne paint is exorbitantly expensive to use mainly to try and get it dry. Especially when it is humid due to the fact that you are trying to force water vapors out of the paint into air that is already composed of moisture as opposed to solvent. Special paint guns are required. Almost all replacement parts for cars were starting to have core charges, like steel wheels from a salvage yard. Or anything you got from Ford. Basically, it just became insanity.