front clip/header panel adaptation
- Thread starter 84H/O
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Listen folks, for the umpteenth time, 78-80 G Bodies have different sheet metal than the 81 forward. Isn't is quite obvious?
Sorry for the first reply. Not everyone is an expert here. Don't have to be. But, the 78-80 are different than 81-88s, 78-81 are considerd A bodies and 82-88 are G-Bodies. The frame stuff is mostly the same from 78-88. Just not body parts.
Yeah, for underside parts, any A/G Body parts will interchange except some El Camino parts. There will be a few exceptions, but not many. Wagons may differ a little also, IDK. But Cutlass, Grand Prix, Monte Carlo, Regal, Malibu, Grand National all r pretty much the same thing. If u r wanting it to hook better without dropping a lot of money then box in the lower control arms (if u can't weld, it may be cheaper to buy boxed arms), get adjustable uppers so u can play with pinion angle, and get some good tires. Just don't get too much hook up until u go with a 8.5", Ford 9" or GM 12 bolt rearend and stronger driveshaft. The factory 7.5" likes to break under added torque and grip.
And FWIW, the "plastic piece that holds the grill and headlights is fibreglass, if it gets cracked it can be repaired with some work. The lower portion is plastic/urethane, though.
And to satisfy my curiosity, what r your plansfor the car? Daily driver, strip, weekend cruiser?
And FWIW, the "plastic piece that holds the grill and headlights is fibreglass, if it gets cracked it can be repaired with some work. The lower portion is plastic/urethane, though.
And to satisfy my curiosity, what r your plansfor the car? Daily driver, strip, weekend cruiser?
car plans
ive got a wish list a mile long, but know that ive got to really pick and choose, basically i want to do a street/strip car, but maybe put a gearvendors over/underdrive so i can highway drive it without cranking the hell out of it. it has the original 260 (and the TH 350) in it currently but i got a olds 350 and a th 400 for it as part of the deal that ill have built up. the long run will be some sway bars, a roll control bar like what Dick Miller Racing has, a 12 bolt rear with a detroit truetrac, some basic suspension stuff, springs, shocks, solid control arms, adjustable uppers, a beefy trans and a converter, and after the 350 maybe a Dick Miller 403. right now im tearing down the interior, its a royal mess, with the interior ripped out im going to do the bodywork and some work with the underbody, im a rustbelter, but the body isnt bad, just some rust in the lower 1/4 panels, all the body work is within my talent, when the engine comes out so does all the smog equipment, so im gonna have a lil assistance with that. and then basically replace what i break. any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated!
ive got a wish list a mile long, but know that ive got to really pick and choose, basically i want to do a street/strip car, but maybe put a gearvendors over/underdrive so i can highway drive it without cranking the hell out of it. it has the original 260 (and the TH 350) in it currently but i got a olds 350 and a th 400 for it as part of the deal that ill have built up. the long run will be some sway bars, a roll control bar like what Dick Miller Racing has, a 12 bolt rear with a detroit truetrac, some basic suspension stuff, springs, shocks, solid control arms, adjustable uppers, a beefy trans and a converter, and after the 350 maybe a Dick Miller 403. right now im tearing down the interior, its a royal mess, with the interior ripped out im going to do the bodywork and some work with the underbody, im a rustbelter, but the body isnt bad, just some rust in the lower 1/4 panels, all the body work is within my talent, when the engine comes out so does all the smog equipment, so im gonna have a lil assistance with that. and then basically replace what i break. any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated!
Doesn't sound like u need too many tips. U have most of it figured out already. But, I would ditch the GearVendors and go with a TH200-4r thats built for the torque u plan with the 403. 200-4rs can hold up when someone builds them right. No such thing as "basic" shocks/springs when u convert to the 12 bolt. If u step up to something that strong, then finish it off the right way. A $2500 rear end won't be worth a hill of beans if the springs and shocks aren't matched to the cars weight and intended use. But I know what u r saying about "basic", the normal replaced parts, right? Solid arms, prob not. Get the ones with Heim joints, or at least Heim on one end and urethane on the other. Little more street friendly and will handle well at the track. Rear control arm braces would be a good idea as well as welding gussetts at the control arm mounting points, driveshaft loop will be a necessity, but they make a bolt-in direct fit for our cars. Stick with drum brakes in the back, less rotational drag.
85t5mcss said:
Actually, I've found references to "G-bodies" in magazine articles as far back as 1971. GM was a little loose on the designation for the Monte, GP, and Cutlass Supreme in the early years. These cars have been referred to as A-bodies, G-bodies, and even A-special bodies in contemporary magazine articles. When the FWD A-body cars (Olds Cutlass Ciera, Chevy Celebrity, Pontiac 6000, and Buick Century) came out in 1982, they were supposed to replace the A/G body line completely. Thankfully, they did not but the A-body designation was given to those cars.
As for underside parts, the suspension is the same on all 78-88 A/G cars. There are three different frames, the 2/4 dr sedans, the wagons, and the Elco. The differences are in the body mounts on the rear frame rails.
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