Front suspension help

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Tz44

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 24, 2012
47
12
8
I should probably add a little info. The car has an iron block 5.3 in it now. I have an aluminum block 5.3 and S475 turbo that will be going in within the next year or so. It’s mostly a street car but will see the drag strip from time to time. Thanks for all of your responses.
 

oLdS1

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 25, 2018
40
68
18
Van Wert OH
I just swapped an LS1 into my olds and went with coilovers in the front and rear. The adjustability is amazing for the height and the handling. Obviously there is cost involved but I'm glad I bit the bullet. I'm still working the bugs out of the setup but glad I did it.
 
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Tz44

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 24, 2012
47
12
8
I just swapped an LS1 into my olds and went with coilovers in the front and rear. The adjustability is amazing for the height and the handling. Obviously there is cost involved but I'm glad I bit the bullet. I'm still working the bugs out of the setup but glad I did it.

If I could afford it I’d go the same route. Sounds like a nice setup!


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UNGN

Comic Book Super Hero
Sep 6, 2016
3,048
3,264
113
Southlake, TX
Yeah I’m definitely leaning towards springs and taller lower ball joints. I have the gbodyparts upper control arms. Would I need to change them out for some longer ones? I had to shim the hell out of them to get the alignment right.

Unless you get adjustable upper control arms, Tall ball joints = Shims, especially in back. I have the G-body parts arms on my T-type with tall ball joints and have minimal shims in front but about 3/4" worth of shims in back. This helps to maximize the Caster which promotes straight line stability and give additional negative camber to the outside tire when turning.
 

Tz44

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 24, 2012
47
12
8
Unless you get adjustable upper control arms, Tall ball joints = Shims, especially in back. I have the G-body parts arms on my T-type with tall ball joints and have minimal shims in front but about 3/4" worth of shims in back. This helps to maximize the Caster which promotes straight line stability and give additional negative camber to the outside tire when turning.

Even without the tall lower ball joints mine is similar. Not much up front but a bunch in the back.
 

Tz44

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 24, 2012
47
12
8
Unless you get adjustable upper control arms, Tall ball joints = Shims, especially in back. I have the G-body parts arms on my T-type with tall ball joints and have minimal shims in front but about 3/4" worth of shims in back. This helps to maximize the Caster which promotes straight line stability and give additional negative camber to the outside tire when turning.

What springs would you recommend to get the front end a little lower? I know the taller ball joints will drop it some but I’m looking for about a 2” drop, as long as everything will still fit inside my wheels.


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Tz44

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 24, 2012
47
12
8
I agree the 5660 would work great, for a 2" drop cut of 1/2 coil

Is that taking the taller lower ball joints into account? Any shocks you’d recommend? Thanks for all this info


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pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
29,270
20,391
113
Kitchener, Ontario
Is that taking the taller lower ball joints into account? Any shocks you’d recommend? Thanks for all this info

that is only the spring, if you have a taller low ball joint you need to add that. As for shocks I run the Bilstein AK shock which I find works real well and it is durable.
 
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