G body frame

[StreetStock#72]

Thanks.

Were the back axle and the front suspension also painted black at the factory?

Rear axle housing center section and tubes were not painted OEM
Sway bar wasn't.

Can't remember about the control arms.

 

[Monte Cristo]

So POR-15 black for the frame, and clear for everything else on the bottom. I may spray some builders' insulation foam in the ends and holes to seal the moisture out of the inside. No moisture inside means the rust stops there.

Is there any reason to top coat it, since it won't see much light?

Should the final look be flat, gloss, or semi-gloss?

 

[Ribbedroof]

Better solution would be to spray inside the frame with cavity wax. Spray foam in cars never ends well.

 

[Monte Cristo]

Better solution would be to spray inside the frame with cavity wax. Spray foam in cars never ends well.

Thanks. I never considered that. Fluid Film has better reviews online reviews. For the frame the trick is getting it inside.

 

[Clutch]

Thanks. I never considered that. Fluid Film has better reviews online reviews. For the frame the trick is getting it inside.

 

[Injectedcutty]

So POR-15 black for the frame, and clear for everything else on the bottom. I may spray some builders' insulation foam in the ends and holes to seal the moisture out of the inside. No moisture inside means the rust stops there.

Is there any reason to top coat it, since it won't see much light?

Should the final look be flat, gloss, or semi-gloss?

I believe the correct factory look would be semi-gloss, but it's you're car so do what you want with it! Once the POR15 cures all the way(couple days) it's soooo easy to clean! I usually just use some water and a microfiber and it looks good as new!

 

[Monte Cristo]

I am trying to keep the look as stock as possible while protecting it from rusting out. Preserving the body is becoming most important as it ages. I wish I had done more of this sooner, but its just how it worked. So I am understanding that the POR-15 doesn't need a top coat since it doesn't see the sun on frame. Correct? A top coat is additional weight and expense, so I want to avoid that if possible.

 

[Injectedcutty]

I am trying to keep the look as stock as possible while protecting it from rusting out. Preserving the body is becoming most important as it ages. I wish I had done more of this sooner, but its just how it worked. So I am understanding that the POR-15 doesn't need a top coat since it doesn't see the sun on frame. Correct? A top coat is additional weight and expense, so I want to avoid that if possible.

There are different types of chassis paint. I always use chassis cote black. It will say on the can whether its UV resistant or sensitive. It doesn't need a top coat.

However, some of their products do require a top coat....i would recommend going to their site to ensure you get the right stuff.

Well....i just went to the site and it doesn't look like they have chassis cote anymore. Here is the stuff we used on the frame of my dads jeep we are restoring...

http://www.por15.com/TOP-COAT_p_102.html

It's a 1 part top coat, and this is what it looks like...

 

[Monte Cristo]

Thank you for all the responses and photos. From their website:
"POR-15 Top Coat has excellent adhesion and when used over POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE COATING the products create a system [that] works to provide a permanent barrier to corrosion."
http://www.por15.com/TOP-COAT_p_102.html
So, Top Coat only works permanently if used as a top coat over standard POR-15, which only needs a top coat if continuously exposed to UV light.

I am considering whether the entire undercarriage needs POR-15 or just the frame, and then just spray the bottom with
cavity Wax/Fluid Fill.

 

[RICKDIZZLE]

Friends, I tracked down a frame for a great price, but the seller has no clue what year or make of G body the frame is from...just knows it's a g body frame. How can I tell if this will work with my 85 Cutlass Supreme? Thank u!