g body not cranking????'s

[dickeymoore]

Yeah mines were loose also gonna still change the ignition switch on the column, still getting clicks and no starts sometimes

 

[Rt Jam]

If jumping at the starter works. You can eliminate the starter, cables and battery.
The signal is not getting to the starter. To confirm. Run a test light to the small lug on the starter and see if it lights up when the key is in the crank position.

If this diagnosis proves out. Concentrate your efforts back from that wire. It should be purple and goes up to the bulkhead connection on the firewall. It will only go hot when key is in crank position and shifter switch is in Park and Neutral.

 

[383_StealthRam]

If jumping at the starter works. You can eliminate the starter, cables and battery.
The signal is not getting to the starter. To confirm. Run a test light to the small lug on the starter and see if it lights up when the key is in the crank position.

If this diagnosis proves out. Concentrate your efforts back from that wire. It should be purple and goes up to the bulkhead connection on the firewall. It will only go hot when key is in crank position and shifter switch is in Park and Neutral.

I had also mentioned running a temp wire and test light/bulb inside the car so that purple wire can be tested every time it's being cranked. Mostly because if it only happens intermittently, it's hard to do the test light at the starter while cranking if you don't have a second person with you available to do the cranking while you're under the car, or under the hood.

This way, once it's confirmed no power getting to solenoid on purple wire, then problem is in wiring, ignition switch, neutral safety, etc. working backwards like you said totally agree

If it happens to be getting power on that purple wire when cranking (confirmed by the temporary test light/bulb) but only clicks, no cranking....then it's the starter/solenoid or cable/connection or battery condition, etc..?

Intermittent issues suck...