That was a long time ago, maybe your standards have changed? 5660 isn't that stiff, it's still gonna be a bit of a boat. You need to spend some adult money to make it handle GOOD. And how exactly are you defining good? While bars will make it corner flatter, they don't necessarily improve grip. All that said, I thought mine did OK the last time I had it out. Better than expected but then again I wasn't pushing at all, just cruising.
Getting my car to handle, What is my next step ?
- Thread starter Kamloops cutlass
- Start date
I have simple needs and tastes
I had a stock 87 iroc-z with f41 suspension and 373 gears 16 “ 50 series bfgs
I thought it handled pretty well when end links weren’t broken which was fairly often lol
That is kind of what I think
Of as a standard I’d like to get my cutlass to if possible
Kam, get a copy of this book.
Unfortunately, Mark Savitske, who owned and operated a business that sold suspension kits, has since closed his shop and gone out of business. If you do a search on G-body sites, you'll find good reviews about the kits but also not so good reviews regarding his business practices, especially, toward the end of his business.
How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle (Performance How-to): Mark Savitske: 9781934709078: Amazon.com: Books
How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle (Performance How-to) [Mark Savitske] on Amazon.com. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle (Performance How-to)
www.amazon.com
Unfortunately, Mark Savitske, who owned and operated a business that sold suspension kits, has since closed his shop and gone out of business. If you do a search on G-body sites, you'll find good reviews about the kits but also not so good reviews regarding his business practices, especially, toward the end of his business.
are you running a rear sway bar ? if not add the one from F-41 equipped donor car.
Biggest front sway bar you can find, factory rear sway bar, tall upper balljoints will change your camber curve and help as well as much caster as you can run, 1/16" toe in, as much camber as you can afford knowing camber WILL cause uneven tire wear, but will increase cornering ability. Better tires with a shorter sidewall. IE, 17" or 18" wheels and wider tires. At MINIMUM a 245 wide tire all the way around. I run 275's all around. Make sure the UTQG rating is no higher than 200. The lower the number the softer the tire and more traction you'll have, but at the expense of tire life.
Besides those modifications, you're going to be getting into much more expensive suspension modifications. Like aftermarket control arms, coil over shocks that are adjustable, etc.
Besides those modifications, you're going to be getting into much more expensive suspension modifications. Like aftermarket control arms, coil over shocks that are adjustable, etc.
If there's not rear sway bar, it will understeer. The adjustable Hellwig is a decent price point bar. Also, I saw no information on A-Arm bushings and trailing arm bushings. Either upgrade these to new rubber/poly/tubular, as there's a ton of movement in the alignment in the 35 year old bushings. I just changed the front lower's from poly to Delrin and noticed a difference. I also went from the 5660 to the 5662's, but for you I'd update the bushings and rear sway bar next.
My car has most of the factory bracing (jounce and gp bar, fender to core support bars), and factory f41 spec front and rear sway bars. With wide tires, Bilstein shocks and new stock type springs, and new body bushings. it handles fairly well and surprises people that ride in it
Body roll is very minimal unless I get crazy with it.
Short of taller lower ball joints or messing with camber that's as much as you can really do with stock replacement type stuff.
Body roll is very minimal unless I get crazy with it.
Short of taller lower ball joints or messing with camber that's as much as you can really do with stock replacement type stuff.
Thank you gentleman , some food for thought and something to save toward through the winter
I’ll start with the obvious stuff like CA and TA bushings
This whole project is costing more and taking longer than I thought it would . I want to get my chassis and suspension sorted out and done before I move on to the next phase , the interior
I’ll start with the obvious stuff like CA and TA bushings
This whole project is costing more and taking longer than I thought it would . I want to get my chassis and suspension sorted out and done before I move on to the next phase , the interior
Everything I've been in that handled good had a high spring rate.
That does not mean you can put a high spring rate in a bus and expect to play with a Corvette but no one thing will replace high spring rates.
After that it's sway bars, stiff shocks, low profile tires. For your car old body bushings with a few probably missing. The frame is wiggling around under the car. A full set of poly's will connect the body to the frame. I'm not here to discourage bracing but adding hundreds of lbs of bracing helps while it hurts.
What do you have for rear upper control arm bushings?
That does not mean you can put a high spring rate in a bus and expect to play with a Corvette but no one thing will replace high spring rates.
After that it's sway bars, stiff shocks, low profile tires. For your car old body bushings with a few probably missing. The frame is wiggling around under the car. A full set of poly's will connect the body to the frame. I'm not here to discourage bracing but adding hundreds of lbs of bracing helps while it hurts.
What do you have for rear upper control arm bushings?
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