Getting serious..... So far code 34

[Lazarus]

Today I called off junkin. Since there is still 3 inches of snow here. Weird decided to wage war on it. 2 cans of gumout carb n choke cleaner. Seafoamed twice another bottle dumped in the tank. Filled the tank with premium. Ran like dog sh*t for 15 minutes. Scared I ruined the carb. Then the smoke cleared and now it runs like a beast. Kickdown is now immediate. You can feel some torque. Now will light the tires up. Nothing great made a right hand turn and mashed it. Maybe old gas and a dirty carb was the issue . runs smoothly and the converter locked up properly. Now on to plugs wires and cap n rotor. Finally positive movement!

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

That is good to hear, there are a lot of small orifices in carbs, especially in the idle circuit of Qjets that can clog easily.

 

[88hurstolds]

The black hose goes to the MAP sensor.
The computer really only needs the O2, Mixture control on the carb, Throttle position, temperature, distributor MAP and Barometric sensors hooked up.
The computer does not need the AIR system hooked up nor does it care about lockup in order to properly provide timing and A/F mixture.
Get yourself a CSM as well, you're going to need it.

The other option is to find a carb from a 77-80 403 or 350 that has the correct kickdown cable and an HEI from a 76-80 Olds and delete the computer all together and then do the manual hookup for the lockup and jump the AC relay in order to bypass the computer for the pressure switch.
Writeups are here:
http://www.gbodyolds.com/forum/showthread.php?12-A-C-Without-a-Computer

http://www.gbodyolds.com/forum/show...information-keeping-your-lockup-cruise-and-AC

 

[pontiacgp]

Today I called off junkin. Since there is still 3 inches of snow here. Weird decided to wage war on it. 2 cans of gumout carb n choke cleaner. Seafoamed twice another bottle dumped in the tank. Filled the tank with premium. Ran like dog sh*t for 15 minutes. Scared I ruined the carb. Then the smoke cleared and now it runs like a beast. Kickdown is now immediate. You can feel some torque. Now will light the tires up. Nothing great made a right hand turn and mashed it. Maybe old gas and a dirty carb was the issue . runs smoothly and the converter locked up properly. Now on to plugs wires and cap n rotor. Finally positive movement!

soaking the carb in a couple of dollars of diesel fuel would have given you the same results

 

[Lazarus]

With the aftermarket headers. There is no cross over pipe. I found a bung for the 02 sensor. Where you simply drill a hole and a collar slips over with a gasket and clamps. Will this work on one bank? Factory was in the passenger Manifold. But since I'm running true duel without a cat. I'm sure I don't have the same back pressure. Not sure if that would change anything. Fixed up the vacuum issue. 34 cleared. Now is 13 for the 02 and the speed sensor. Need to get a spedo cable. So really its down to the 02.

 

[kustomkyle]

The main problem with putting an oxygen sensor into a header is that you have to find a way to get it all the way down into the collector. So far the only solution I've found is to get a pigtail repair kit and splice it into the wire already on the oxygen sensor to extend the wire. I haven't done this yet, but maybe someone can shed some light on what the proper technique is so it still functions (and properly).

Your oxygen sensor was only reading one bank anyway with the factory setup. It went into the RH exhaust manifold before the crossover pipe.

I don't really think the oxygen sensor cares if you don't have factory back pressure, just so long as it is reading the combined exhaust gases (collector mounted) and not just one cylinder.

Your A.I.R. system technically won't throw a code, but if there is something wrong with it you'll have problems nonetheless. The main thing, if it's gone already, is to make sure the ports in the heads are capped off and that you plug/do something with the vacuum hoses that go/went to the diverter valves. Otherwise, you would still have vacuum issues, and potentially popping/backfiring through the exhaust.

 

[Lazarus]

The location I wanted was a bit down from the collector. I assumed if its one wire I could just extend it 2 foot. I got everything pretty much cleaned up. That and the factory connector was left dangling on the Manifold by the PO so its now a melted mess. Found ac/delco part 2295 .

 

[kustomkyle]

Header reducers are offered with O2 bungs, so that shouldn't be too much of an issue. You just don't want it too far back, as it won't be able to do its job either.

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

That far down you should do a 3 wire heated o2 sensor upgrade. With splicing the harness signal wire for the o2 you will need to solder the connections, not normal wire climping.

Removing the AIR pump won't effect the computer but it will reduce the effectiveness of your catalytic converter. The AIR system pumps air into the cat converter to create the needed lean condition for the 3 way catalytic conversion.

 

[Lazarus]

PO deleted the cat and air pump. These are long tube headers. So the collector is 3" so the kits I found were for 2.5....looking like I need to drop the Manifold and weld a bung. Even with a reducer its ending half way back the Transmission. Side note I threw in some 134 and the a/c kicked right over and bumped up the rpm. So the system is working. Just got the CEL once she warms up. Hopefully the 02 peps the motor up a bit. Ordered my spedo cable and the vac switch for the HVAC since its blowing out the floor. Hissing from the swich and the assembly is way loose.It's been covered 100s of times on here. May as well order the bung and sensor. The heated sensor I just hook it to an run position hot? Stereo would be simplistic.