Got a little off-track but getting back to the orig question, the LS1 brakes can be made to fit with little fab work and could easily be done in a driveway ( if it's still warm where you are LOL ) the link posted to thirdgen.org is very helpful but it was actually easier once I had it all apart to figure it out. Only took a couple hours when I put the LS1 rear brakes on my car. I went with that setup as it seemed to give the biggest bang for a small amount of money ( $200 for a complete set from fleabay ) . Any Fbody 98-03 came with them and the replacement parts are cheap. As well they are easier to adapt for use with a parking brake IMO.
GN 8.5 w/discs?
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Out of curiosity, how did you guys get the calipers to clear your frame?
The problem I found with following the Third Gen F-body brake upgrade is that their rear end is quite a bit wider than a G-body rear. I had a Ford 9" built to stock G-body width specs but added the LS1 rear discs and even with the frame notch my bleeder screws were within an 1/8" of touching the frame. Here's a couple of pictures:
Granted, this is at full drop with the rear end actually touching the frame.
Did you rotate the calipers so they would clear?
The problem I found with following the Third Gen F-body brake upgrade is that their rear end is quite a bit wider than a G-body rear. I had a Ford 9" built to stock G-body width specs but added the LS1 rear discs and even with the frame notch my bleeder screws were within an 1/8" of touching the frame. Here's a couple of pictures:
Granted, this is at full drop with the rear end actually touching the frame.
Did you rotate the calipers so they would clear?
I see no one has mentioned the 2nd gen brakes. Are they too rare/expensive or just not doable? Figures that's the ones I have lots of.
My car isn't "dropped" so I have a lot of clearance. I fugure that if my axle is touching the frame then I have worse issues to deal with than busting the caliper. Regarding the 2nd gen brakes I think they are smaller in dia and harder to set up for use with a parking brake.
FE3X CLONE said:Out of curiosity, how did you guys get the calipers to clear your frame?
The problem I found with following the Third Gen F-body brake upgrade is that their rear end is quite a bit wider than a G-body rear. I had a Ford 9" built to stock G-body width specs but added the LS1 rear discs and even with the frame notch my bleeder screws were within an 1/8" of touching the frame. Here's a couple of pictures:
Granted, this is at full drop with the rear end actually touching the frame.
Did you rotate the calipers so they would clear?
without the rubber cap you'll probably have more than enough clearance but then again how often is the rear end going to drop to that level if ever?
What kind of proportioning valve/combination valve would be needed for a swap like this? Also is the stock e-brake cable useable?
you want a 4whl disc master cylinder and combo valve. ones from a late 70's-early 90's f-body should work well. or you can get something like this for the combo valve-- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3910/ i prefer this route since it's adjustable, you always need to tune a disc swap.
as for the p-brake cable...that's a guess no matter what. it'll depend mostly on what disc setup you use and how they mount.
as for the p-brake cable...that's a guess no matter what. it'll depend mostly on what disc setup you use and how they mount.
Cool sounds good. How would you adjust the adjustable prop. valve? Driving the car and adjusting until the car slows down before the rear locks up? I don't think this swap is the highest of things on my list to do but I'd definately like to do a drum to disc swap somewhere in my future.
part of the adjustment depends on how you drive (assuming you'll be PUSHING it)
but the basic adjustment is to get all 4whls to lock up at the same time with none dragging. the rears should apply first with light pressure.
but the basic adjustment is to get all 4whls to lock up at the same time with none dragging. the rears should apply first with light pressure.
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