From a material standpoint you’re less likely to get the corrosion with the tinned copper or aluminum versions of the strap. Plus, no sleeve to trap moisture like cable would, but at least get a good ground whichever way you do it.
Ground Straps?
- Thread starter LT1B-Body
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Last set of battery cables that I needed, I went out and bought the bulk wire by the foot and grabbed a mechanical crimping tool and the eyelet ends in copper as well. My 5# short maul was more than willing to smack that crimping pin a time or two. T'was a good way to exorcise some excess frustration.
For insulating the ends, i went with Heat Shrink in the appropriate size. One of those baby butane torches makes a great heat source to get the shrink to shrink.😀
Nick
For insulating the ends, i went with Heat Shrink in the appropriate size. One of those baby butane torches makes a great heat source to get the shrink to shrink.😀
Nick
This ended up being a fairly in depth discussion lol.
It's a stockish build using the og 10SI alternator, so not much power there. Only extra load will be an electric fuel pump. I'm planning on doing 4 gauge marine battery cables, like the setup I have on my Caprice. That car has a beefy electrical systems though with all it's accessories, a 140amp alternator, and 340 watts in electric fans alone.
I'm just attaching all the ground straps while the front end is apart. From what I was reading though, ground straps have more current capacity and are much more durable than a comparable ground cable. Corrosion is a non-issue here for the most part, and the exposed design of a ground strap seems like it would dry out faster when it did get wet.
It's a stockish build using the og 10SI alternator, so not much power there. Only extra load will be an electric fuel pump. I'm planning on doing 4 gauge marine battery cables, like the setup I have on my Caprice. That car has a beefy electrical systems though with all it's accessories, a 140amp alternator, and 340 watts in electric fans alone.
I'm just attaching all the ground straps while the front end is apart. From what I was reading though, ground straps have more current capacity and are much more durable than a comparable ground cable. Corrosion is a non-issue here for the most part, and the exposed design of a ground strap seems like it would dry out faster when it did get wet.
Another thing to watch for is to make sure the mounting points on the alternator and the mounting bracket to the engine block are clean.
If at all I would get the 4 piece 12 inch set. But honestly, the short units available at Wal-Mart are fine. As stated 1/0 or 00 welding cable fine. On stock OEM car, the 4 gauge is fine. Biggest mistake I have seen on project cars is large high speed low drag batteries, proper 12V cables to starter and Alternator, and wimpy ground cables.
Ground cable has to be at minimum same capacity as the 12 volt positive cable. Plus factor resistance increase due to distance.
If your cable to starter is 0 gauge 30 inch, then coming from block to Batt has to account for this.
If your ground is 4 guage 16 inch to batt, then no good. If 0 gauge 16 inch then your fine.
If the cable to the starter is 4 gauge 18 inch, and block to Batt ground is 14 inch 0 gauge you are fine.
In a direct current system the electrons actually flow from Point A to Point B, so the positive and negative sides of the flow have to be in balance. If the ground system is larger than positive that is ok too, just adds cost.
Ground cable has to be at minimum same capacity as the 12 volt positive cable. Plus factor resistance increase due to distance.
If your cable to starter is 0 gauge 30 inch, then coming from block to Batt has to account for this.
If your ground is 4 guage 16 inch to batt, then no good. If 0 gauge 16 inch then your fine.
If the cable to the starter is 4 gauge 18 inch, and block to Batt ground is 14 inch 0 gauge you are fine.
In a direct current system the electrons actually flow from Point A to Point B, so the positive and negative sides of the flow have to be in balance. If the ground system is larger than positive that is ok too, just adds cost.
I'm fairly familiar with electrics, I like thinking of it in terms of fluid flowing in a pipe (a common representation I know). The entire system is only going to flow as much current as the smallest wire/ cable can support, so no sense in have a larger power cable than a ground and vice versa. Everything should match and handle more current than you're expecting the load to draw.
This ^^^^^EXACTLY!
For a stock setup you're good with what you described in post #13. I would add an additional ground in the rear near the fuel sending unit.
Run a ground wire from the back of the alternator to the block. The alt makes negative energy as well as pos. It cuts down on the heat the alt can generate.
You are correct, both will eventually corrode. The cable will last longer. Most automotive have gotten away from the braided cable for that reason.
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