H.T. legitamate ignition cylinder lock removal

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I would attack the doors, but we had a nice dump of snow, my glove box is unlocked if that makes thing easier?
 
Calgary's Own said:
I would attack the doors, but we had a nice dump of snow, my glove box is unlocked if that makes thing easier?

That makes it harder, you have to get it in the lock position to release the tumblers. Go for the doors, cold sucks, snow is worse, but it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to get the upper door panel off, rods removed, spring clip off, and lock cylinder out. Unless you want to remove the glove box entirely take it in the house and spend a couple hours trying to get the cylinder out......If you do this and are successful, let me know how in hell you did it (I can't pick a lock to save my life, lol), I have a glove box door that I don't have a key for and can't see a way to get it out with out ruining anything, messed around with it for about 2 hours or more one day, and got frustrated when I had no luck, lol.
 
Ill let ya know, Im gonna mess with it today between sliding around to appointments :lol:
 
Oldsmoletick said:
Calgary's Own said:
I would attack the doors, but we had a nice dump of snow, my glove box is unlocked if that makes thing easier?

That makes it harder, you have to get it in the lock position to release the tumblers. Go for the doors, cold sucks, snow is worse, but it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to get the upper door panel off, rods removed, spring clip off, and lock cylinder out. Unless you want to remove the glove box entirely take it in the house and spend a couple hours trying to get the cylinder out......If you do this and are successful, let me know how in hell you did it (I can't pick a lock to save my life, lol), I have a glove box door that I don't have a key for and can't see a way to get it out with out ruining anything, messed around with it for about 2 hours or more one day, and got frustrated when I had no luck, lol.

So the glove box lock was easy, used the hole through the glove box using a piece of mechanics wire, down to the lock itself, push pin down, pull out a bit, push down another pin, pull out a bit, and so on, way easier than the door, locked or unlocked is no issue, but, no codes on it 🙁

Click on pic for zoom,




Disclaimer- Doin what I do, if I offend locksmiths, get bent, its an old car, hustle the Mercedes drivers :wink:


So on to the door, 4 Phillips screws and a pair of needle nose later,

Again, click to zoom




So now do I need to pull the chrome cap and retrieve the cylinder to find my code?
 
If the code isn't stamped on the cylinder, which is odd, but maybe GM wanted to save money on these :roll: . If you remove the chrome cap (door lock), do so carefully, I doubt the code will be there, but there is another way to find out what cuts you need. On each of the little tumblers there should be a number (1-4 if I remember correctly), starting with the tumbler closest to the key head, write down each number (should be 6 cuts), then you can go to your dealer and ask them to do a depth cut with those numbers. Be very carefull removing the cap though, if you ruin it, unless your local dealer has been in business along time you might not be able to get a replacement.
 
Well, back to the project, I am going to harvest a used trunk lock from the wreckers tomorrow and attempt to have it along with the door and glove box locks redone to match the key I dont have for the doors... Fingers crossed, our usual lock smith quoted about 125 cdn to get me back in shape... I should pick the dealers brain for a $ while I'm at lol
 
i do have to comment.... if you have a lock cylinder in you trunk, i find it weird that you went to the doors first. the trunk is the easiest cylinder to get to; just pop the rivot out, pull the spring clip, and pop out the lock. if you don't have one, then disguard this
 
I was thrilled to find this post, and am hoping some of you may be able to help us.

We just bought a 1989 Delta 88 for my son. It looked like a great deal, as it only had 75k miles on it, but it had no trunk or door keys. We wanted to avoid the high cost that the locksmiths wanted to charge us to make a key, so when we found this post we removed the lock from the glovebox and found what we THOUGHT was the code printed on the back end of the cylinder. It was B3 55.

We brought this down to the local Chevy dealer (the Olds dealer didn't have a key blank OR the key machine), but when they tried it they told us that their machine would not accept the code we provided. In the example shown in this post the code was actually on the side of the cylinder, and we're wondering if perhaps there would be a different code there, or if we are simply out of luck as far as the dealer being able to make a key?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, because as several of you noted, the locksmith wants to stick it to us price-wise. 🙂
 
2fit661ca said:
i do have to comment.... if you have a lock cylinder in you trunk, i find it weird that you went to the doors first. the trunk is the easiest cylinder to get to; just pop the rivot out, pull the spring clip, and pop out the lock. if you don't have one, then disguard this
Calgary's Own said:
...harvest a used trunk lock from the wreckers tomorrow and attempt to have it along with the door and glove box locks redone to match the key I dont have for the doors...

It is also noted in the thread I don't have a trunk lock... :idea:

heyjohnboy said:
I was thrilled to find this post, and am hoping some of you may be able to help us.

We just bought a 1989 Delta 88 for my son. It looked like a great deal, as it only had 75k miles on it, but it had no trunk or door keys. We wanted to avoid the high cost that the locksmiths wanted to charge us to make a key, so when we found this post we removed the lock from the glovebox and found what we THOUGHT was the code printed on the back end of the cylinder. It was B3 55.

We brought this down to the local Chevy dealer (the Olds dealer didn't have a key blank OR the key machine), but when they tried it they told us that their machine would not accept the code we provided. In the example shown in this post the code was actually on the side of the cylinder, and we're wondering if perhaps there would be a different code there, or if we are simply out of luck as far as the dealer being able to make a key?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, because as several of you noted, the locksmith wants to stick it to us price-wise. 🙂

The car represented here is a different platform to your car, perhaps try a forum that would better suit a FWD car as opposed to a RWD car...
 
heyjohnboy said:
I was thrilled to find this post, and am hoping some of you may be able to help us.

We just bought a 1989 Delta 88 for my son. It looked like a great deal, as it only had 75k miles on it, but it had no trunk or door keys. We wanted to avoid the high cost that the locksmiths wanted to charge us to make a key, so when we found this post we removed the lock from the glovebox and found what we THOUGHT was the code printed on the back end of the cylinder. It was B3 55.

We brought this down to the local Chevy dealer (the Olds dealer didn't have a key blank OR the key machine), but when they tried it they told us that their machine would not accept the code we provided. In the example shown in this post the code was actually on the side of the cylinder, and we're wondering if perhaps there would be a different code there, or if we are simply out of luck as far as the dealer being able to make a key?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, because as several of you noted, the locksmith wants to stick it to us price-wise. 🙂

Being that your car is as new as it is, you may be able to give the dealer the VIN of your car and have them cut them off that, 89 or 90 is about the cut off.
 
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