Has anyone installed tubular control arms from Hotchkis suspension to upgrade to 11" brakes?

[chevymalibu283]

Just curious to know who among the forum members have installed the tubular upper control arms from Hotchkis suspension to upgrade to 11" or !2" brakes from either an F body of B body car to their g body cars?

 

[ssn696]

Widens the front track by about 1-1/2", plus you should correct the bump steer with taller tie rod ends. I have the completely refurbished B-body spindles, 1LE rotors (drilled and slotted), plus calipers, dust shields, new bearings, seals, and hoses, plus the correct master cylinder. I have the Hotchkis control arms, and elected to swap in taller ball joints and use the Blazer packed hub/knuckle option instead. If you still want to go the B-body route, I will entertain offers for the rest of the parts. Shipping will be a bit, but it would be a bolt-in right from the shipping boxes.

Note: this a photo from a while back - the rotors have surface rust, but have zero miles on them.

 

[Streetbu]

There are better options out now for larger brakes that don't make the hump steer issue worse. My .02, don't and go with AFX spindles, Blazer spindles, or cut your factory ones and use KORE3 brakes and hubs.

 

[chevymalibu283]

ssn696,
what master cylinder did you use with the B body spindles? I went with the F body spindles and 11"rotors and a master from a second gen. camaro. I was curious if the B body master would work with my stock booster so I can upgrade to the aluminum/plastic master and not cast iron.

 

[ssn696]

Here's a late response to an obsolete question. I never got this rig on the road before changing the plan to Blazer spindles. I picked up the heavy cast-iron B-body Taxi/Police master cylinder because it had the right threads for my 1980 brake lines. I'd try to figure it out now with the lighter aluminum/plastic version. I'd rather have six less pounds of something to haul around the corners.