Header recommendation?

[john87442]

Just wanted to check with the group about suggestions for a new set of ceramic coated headers for my 350 build. There’s a lot of choices and I don’t have the experience to know what brand would be better. I’ve seen 16 gauge 13/4 primary to 3 inch collector made by Doug, also several other manufacturers so experienced advice on quality and performance would be appreciated. 350 is going to be a mild build for a solid street machine. Thanks

 

[mikester]

I used Schoenfelds on my Malibu coupe. Had them coated. Fit okay but wont work with AC. The other issue is I had to use a really short oil filter.
My wagon got a set of Hedman short tubes. They fit great with the AC, can get at the starter AND the oil filter with no problem. Mild 350/330 crate motor.

 

[spidereyes455]

350 what? Olds, chevy, Buick, Pontiac? How mild of a buildup? Cam, compression ect. Depending what your putting together you might not even really need headers. I had hedman long tubes on an 80 cutlass with a 403 and they were honestly more of a pain than they were worth.

 

[john87442]

Yes I should have mentioned it’s a 350 olds being built for my 87 442. Still talking with the builder for what size cam etc.. I found a set of Doug headers 1 3/4 16 gauge with 3” collectors ceramic coated. Seems to have good reviews. Just want to make sure whatever I use fits without a bunch of modifications. Thanks

 

[olds307 and 403]

Yeah headers can be hit and miss unfortunately. A member here used a set of the Chinese stainless full length designed for the early A body in his G body. They fit with minor massaging. They do hang a bit low, designed for a BBO. I bought the same set for my 1970 Cutlass S. The passenger side fit perfect. The drivers needed one tube heated then moved and flattened to clear the motor mount. It should have been the other way around on our cars. They have 3/8" flanges with nice Stainless and cost me $200 CAD shipped! Don't buy Flowtech, rust super fast, mine were getting spots through the ceramic coating then peeling within a year plus thin flanges, needed double gaskets. The Hedman sound a bit better. Are you sure the Doug's makes Olds G body headers? I couldn't find any on their site. Only sbc headers for that year.

 

[rogue_ryder]

I can tell you that the Hooker Super Comps (SBO Gbody) do fit without any massaging. The issue is they're not available so you'd have to find 'em on eBay or someone with old stock.
https://www.holley.com/products/discontinued_product/parts/3108HKR

Be very careful in what you buy! When I bought my car these were what was on it:

As far as I can tell there's 2 direct fit options currently available:

Flowtech 11152FLT Flowtech Headers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Flowtech Headers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Headers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

and

American Racing Headers OBBG-78178300HR American Racing Headers GM G-Body Headers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - American Racing Headers GM G-Body Headers with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Headers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I think the FlowTech's could be a knock off of the Hookers, based on the review the person complaining about fit stated the starter interfered and the steering shaft, and a BIG reason I didn't have that problem is I have a mini starter on my car (clockable and smaller) and the Astro Steering shaft (no rag joint to hit the header). With those Mods you'd still be about $1000 ahead of going for the ARH's; CutlassEFI posted up some good dyno results with FlowTechs on a 403 over on ROP a few years back so they're not a bad header in terms of flow, just not the best fitting.

 

[melloelky]

i can't speak to what fit's an old's but I've had headers on a bunch of cars.i have always wished i went with short ones over the long tubes.it's been said that the long tubes can be more work than they're worth and it's true.the majority of people out there don't need long tubes where the shorty's would work just fine.the long's hang lower than anything else under the car making the exhaust close to the ground by default-no one likes that,can pose starter/oil filter and chassis fitment issues and a general pain to work around.if i could build my car again i'd go with the shorty's and have a much cleaner profile to the car w/out seeing the part of the exhaust on the underside.just my $0.02

 

[rogue_ryder]

i can't speak to what fit's an old's but I've had headers on a bunch of cars.i have always wished i went with short ones over the long tubes.it's been said that the long tubes can be more work than they're worth and it's true.the majority of people out there don't need long tubes where the shorty's would work just fine.the long's hang lower than anything else under the car making the exhaust close to the ground by default-no one likes that,can pose starter/oil filter and chassis fitment issues and a general pain to work around.if i could build my car again i'd go with the shorty's and have a much cleaner profile to the car w/out seeing the part of the exhaust on the underside.just my $0.02

are you sure?

I'll take that extra Torque and HP all day over having manifolds or shorties. Shorties do fit EASY but it's tough to give up that extra hp. If it were a 455, then sure go for the shorties or manifolds but you can get long tubes to fit on the SBO. According to some the difference could be >20HP with long tubes on the Olds motor (but I have no Dyno data to back that up).

 

[melloelky]

i am sure,due to the fact that my post was 100% subjective,if you're unsure what subjective means it means a statement based on or influenced by personal feelings, tastes,opinions etc etc.to each their own.just trying to share my personal experiences on the subject.

 

[olds307 and 403]

I would go with these Hedman over the Flowtech due to the rust and even thinner flanges than the Hedman. Plus they have the better ball and socket collector. They are supposed to fit Ok, for the most part.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-58076?rrec=true#overview
I sent Cutlassefi a set of Sanderson shorties to dyno test. He never did. Maybe because the set that was direct shipped was the worst looking out of the 4 sets I have bought for shitty welds. When I questioned Century Performance on the shitty welds. They said it was expected for semi finished headers, I bought them uncoated. So $500 is unfinished and should look like junk? The last uncoated set I bought years back looked OK on the Welds. Full length headers on a SBO are actually worth more like 30 HP/TQ, plenty enough to bother with. When I send Mark the rest of the money I owe him, I am going to question on why he never dynoed them like I asked. From other makes dyno tests, shorty headers will be worth nearly 20 HP over a log style exhaust manifold like the factory SBO.