Headers that don't require engine bay modifications?

[kustomkyle]

I have an 86 Regal with a 307 Olds and want to put headers on the engine when the engine is rebuilt. I bought a set of Blackjack headers (by Dynomax), but the instructions say you have to put in a smaller starter, remove the oil filter adapter and use the short oil filter for Oldsmobiles.

My main concern is the oil filter situation. I DO NOT want to use those short oil filters. I don't think the Oldsmobile engines have as good as an oiling system as say, a small block Chevy. But even if that is just a myth, I don't want to put a small oil filter on a fresh engine that I want to last. I am at the point where I might just reuse the factory manifolds. I wanted to run headers with true dual exhaust and dual catalytic converters. Overall I am more concerned with the longevity and reliabilty of the engine than performance.

Is there any way I can still use the tall oil filters with the full length headers? Or, is there a header manufacturer that makes a "block hugging" headers for clearance for small block Oldsmobile G-bodies?

 

[Oldsmoletick]

Being that you have a 307 you probably already have the smaller starter, if not pick one up for an Olds 260, you shouldn't have any problems with it. As far as the filter goes, don't be afraid of the small pf46, I have had mine set up like this for almost 7 years and 60,000 miles (350 olds), no problems what so ever, oil is always nice and clean, I have excellent pressure, Every couple of years my engine is out, so I replace the oil pan gasket and have never found any mettalic in the pan. If GM thinks it's good enough for 2500 pick-ups with a 6.0L, it will be good enough for the 307. The small filters actually flow better than the large anyway, so it will not hurt a thing. As long as you remember you're driving an olds not a chevy (olds engines don't like high r's in stock form) and change your oil on a regular basis. Buying a remote filter set-up for stock olds is not a good idea, I've heard that it could make the oiling problems these engines have worse. If you still don't want to use the small one I don't think there is a company that makes shorties for these, so that would be a custom build that will run you way more than it's worth, but it is your car. Oh yeah and I do take my car on extended road trips (6-10 hrs one way) so it's not like I just use the car around town, very reliable daily dirver (8.75:1 350 olds, 260 starter, pf46, full length headers).

 

[Blake442]

I had a set of DynoMax headers on my 442 when it still had the 307 in it. I even bought another set when I put the SBC in it.

I used the stock starter with no problems.
Just swapped to the shorter filter and was good to go.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

dynomax is the way to go 8)

 

[stats75]

If you stick with the higher grade filters and not the cheap ones you should not have anything to worry about and stick to a schedule with all fluid changes...

 

[kustomkyle]

I usually change the oil every 2500 miles. I would at 3000 miles but the oil gets pretty black and watery at about 1500 miles, even though it usually starts out as light-gold, thick 30HD. I use thick oil in the summer because it smokes badly. That is why the engine is getting rebuilt. I'm assuming Oldsmobile engines aren't as bad as this if they are in good shape, but this is the only Olds engine I have dealt with. The small block Chevys in cars I've worked with had very clean oil when changed at 3000 miles, but they were all in good running order. I'm not sure whether it is an Olds problem or the previous owners never changed the oil but there was a decent amount of tar in the heads when I took one of the valve covers off to see if the drain holes were plugged (they weren't, surprisingly). A Cutlass I looked at before I bought the Regal with 75,000 miles had very dark oil in it too, but it ran better and didn't smoke.

 

[jae]

I use the shorty filter on my Olds 350 (has full-length Hedman headers on it), along with a HD starter. The headers are ceramic-coated and the starter has heat-wrap around it which helps. As with Blake haven't had a problem with the starter knock on wood. Every blue moon after a very hard run, if I shut 'em down, then try to refire get a slight heat-soak condition on 1st try, but second try fires right up. The condition was really bad on my 66 Impala and that didn't have headers, had the "ram" exhaust manifolds but the exhuast ran right next to the starter so the soleniod would just bake, something common on GMs.

I have to run the shorter filter b/c of the headers. It's a tight fit with the headers, inspection cover and lower a-arm but I can snake it in. Not sure of the Dynomax headers, but on the Hedmans I have to place a couple of shop towels on the header before removing the filter because I have to basically turn the filter sideways to snake it out. The majority i the time the oil is dirty as hell because people don't change it like they should.

Run a quality filter and oil and you should be fine.

 

[pontiacgp]

I have the full length hedmans with the ball collector style. I have a gear reduction racing starter so no problems there. I use a short high quality oil filter such as amsoil or wix and no problem with the oil pressure....the two issues is the headers sit real close to the clutch slave cylinder so I have it wrapped for now but will be replacing the cylinder with a hydraulic thro out bearing...the other issue is the passenger side header is very close to the brake line that travels to the right side brakes. You can remove the clamp holding the brake line in place and slide the line on top of the crossmember and resecure it. There is plenty of room between the oil pan to route the brake line under the pan and this is easier done while you have the engine removed.

As for the filter the quality of the oil and filter is much more important than the style of the oil filter. We use a short filter on our race car and that motor puts up with alot more stress than you'll most likely ever put on a street car.