Help! Engine/Carb troubles

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I can't find a fuel filter. Idk if there is one. It seems like if I never run my motor the pump quits working. It's weird. Do pumps have anything in them like a rubber plunger or something that can go bad or dry up and cause the pump to quit working??
 
elliottw said:
I can't find a fuel filter. Idk if there is one. It seems like if I never run my motor the pump quits working. It's weird. Do pumps have anything in them like a rubber plunger or something that can go bad or dry up and cause the pump to quit working??

Two filters won't hurt anything if you can't find one...just cut the line and add a 10$ one between fuel pump and carb

I would imagine the rod isn't hitting square on the fuel pump arm. Take it off to see if the arm is f---ed up or needs to be tightened. Sounds like you just need a new fuel pump or return your new one cuz it's defective. Buy a stock replacement, or holley if you need a higher flowing one

Just some info, if you have a stock cam on a later (recent) SBC there is no lobe on the cam to hit the rod. But this isn't the problem if it's worked before.
 
dan2286 said:
elliottw said:
Where is the fuel filter at?

If its an e-brock, usually people put it in the line that goes from fuel pump to carb. I believe it can also be from the tank to the fuel pump. If you cant see a filter, there probably isn't one. That could be what is causing problems.


I had a brandnew fuel pump go bad in 4 days because it was a cheap chrome plated one and some of the chrome plating came off inside it aparently when I was installing the male fittings for the fuel lines to slide on.... Not cool. Chrome was making the threads bigger than they should be so when I put the fittings in they produced chrome and brass shavings, i tried to clean it out as best as I could but without a doubt 4 days later it was dead dead.

You need to attach a vacuum gauge and see if you have acceptable amounts of vacuum. Get a cheap tune-up kit from JCwhitney, comes with timing light, vacuum gauge, and a tachometer.

My cutlass used to die at stop signs, hesitate upon acceleration. I used the timing light, vacuum gauge (disconected the brake booster and attached the vacuum gauge their) and tachometer simultaneously and now it purrs. I adjusted the timing to maximum vacuume in the engine, then slowly increased both mixture screws till neither affected the RPM anymore , back them off about a 1/8th turn then back forward to fine tune it to the point where it doesn't increase RPM anymore, i would then lower idle speed back down around 700 (which would bring the vacuum waaaaay up) and start playing with the mixture again lol.
 
I took off my carb and the gasket between my carb spacer and my manifold has a big crack in it. When I would pour gas in the carb sometimes it would leak out of that area so could that be a vaccum issue and whats giving me my problems??
 
that could have something to do with your problem. try putting a small dab of permatex sealer on it, then check your vacuum gauge ?
 
I would check the fuel lines and see if there is either a pin hole or a crack in one of them. If there is, it will be like a cracked drinking straw and be drawing excessive air. Another thing you might wish to try is getting a gas can full of gas and running a hose into it. Attach the hose to the inlet side of the fuel pump and see if it runs OK. If it does, the problem is in the tank or feed line. If not, the problem is most likely in the pump to carb line. If the issue is indeed fuel starvation, vacuum will have nothing to do with it. Since the carb is not pushing gas out the accelerator pump squirter, it seems that the issue is one of starvation, and not a tuning related issue. I would also check the pump to be sure it is bolted flush to the engine. Due to the nature of how a mechanical pump works, they can sometimes work themselves loose if they were not properly tightened to begin with.
 
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