Help! Engine Problems 86 Regal 307

[rtanner68]

I'm stumped here. Having a frustrating morning, I need some help.

1986 Regal 307, Auto trans. Let me start from the beginning. I purchased this car 1 week ago. She had a constant "ticking" noise from her engine. It is not oil starvation/valves. I am still diagnosing it. That being said, she ran well enough. Driveable. Slowly that changed, accutally it was sporatic. For example, 5 days ago I started her and she well perfect. No stalling, no ticking. Drove around. On the return trip, when I started her- it was like mr. Hyde. Ticking, rough idle... but still driveable enough. 3 Days ago I performed tune up- changing coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve & filter, oil & filter. I also changed out to a better new battery. I tested her after... and she ran the same... maybe a bit better. Still ticking, still trying to stal under load/in gear. At first she idled for 15 minuets, but after the drive I parked her, and in 2 mins the engine was out again. Worse, without working with the throttle while parking her, she stalls. I park her, and came back thius morning...

Same condition. Now I go to diagnose the situation, I started with the EGR valve. I pulled it off and checked for carbon, anything. It seems fine. Now heres the kicker... after reinstalling it and going over the cauume lines.... Mr. Hyde to the extreme. Fast idle in park, with surging, and stalling out in gear. I didn't change anything I'm sure. I went over about 60% of the vacuum hoses. Heres the biggest issue, the previous owner had "rebuilt" the engine- and missed the point of what reinstalling means... meaning he left quite a few connectors unpluged as well as reinstyalling the AIR pump, but not routing the hoses back up. I cant begin to diagnose the possible vacum leak, the hoses are prob mixed up, or there is a broken sensor. This guy reused everything. I have performed a compression test, the engine is good.

Guys, I just need some help here please. Im at my witts end... any ideas are greatly appreciated.

 

[rtanner68]

Sorry for the early crazed post. Here is my update of the situation as it stands:

Engine will start but will die out unless throttle is applied... still running very rough. Fuel pump preassure is good. EGR is good. Having a hard time for vacuum leak testing, as I have to go over and reroute all the lines... due to the poor reassembly of the previous owner. There are quite a few missing connections, as well as harness connectors also.

I noticed there was no check engine light. I first thought maybe this guy just tore the whole diagnostic system out, but after removing the cluster cover I see he just took the bulb and socket and knocked it out... I suppose he may have been trying to pass an emissions test in the past or trying to con buyers. Heres the point... its hooked up and reads a code 12... all good. (Two flashes.) My question is does the CCC diagnostic system still read as working, even if maybe the ECM or other systems are not plugged up. Im thinking this is an emissions device issue, but there is no trouble code. So maybe this system will still read operational even if not completly connect to its sub systems.

Anyhow, just a thought. Still could use some diagnostic help here. Thank you,
RT

 

[1986elcamino383]

I take it that you have a computer controled Q jet if the ecm frys on you it goes in to a limp mode it runs but ruff . I would try to fix all the vac leaks . Also check spark it can cause ruff running if not strong . Good luck

 

[rtanner68]

The spark is good. Firing order is good. I am not even sure if there is a vacuum leak.... still have to trace the hoses toi make sure Gomer did'nt double back something. I am new to this ECM crap, and yes its a 4 barrell quadra with these completly non-tunable controls. Where is the ECM located... is it under the dash- right hand side as in modern car computers are... And what are the other possible issues.


I know this is like a shot in the dark, but Im hoping someone has some ideas that might help me click in come tomorrow night's "battle" Thanks

 

[dan2286]

Pretty much you need to get a factory service manual for your car and make sure everything is hooked up correctly. Nobody can help come up with a diagnosis unless we know everything is hooked up correctly.

 

[rtanner68]

I have a good amount of the vacuum diagrams, just have to trace all hoses. Here is the thing; this car ran well 5 days ago, with its current configuration. Nothing I did (ie: wires, rotor, cap, coil, plugs) changed anything. Even the "ticking" stopped. My point is that something very sporatic is causing this problem. This car ran well for 15 minuets- no ticking, no trying to stall. That was only one time though. When I first drove this car, date of purchase- she ran ok- a little bit of possible stall, but not bad. And she had the ticking. Then 5 days ago that perfect run, then yesterday she refuses to idle and stalls out and runs very rough.

Facts: Great compression
Fuel flow and preassure is good.
Ignition good.
Oil good.

The ticking may be related or separate... But I believe it goes hand in hand by thaty "perfect" drive 5 days ago.

Ideas on what to check. I greatly appreciate any help. I will still check the vacuum lines, but I believe this is not the main problem, as I didn't change them and she ran like a peach that one day for 15 minuets.

 

[Pontiac455]

Their fameious for intake manifold leaking. Fill up a spray bottle full of soap and water, start the engine and spray where the intake meets the head. Pay close attention and watch where the water gets sucked in. U will also hear it.

 

[Pontiac455]

do the same to the base of the carb.

 

[1986elcamino383]

If you use carb spray the idle will go up thats a good indcator that you have a leak . Also if you can check timing . The ticking could be a few things but prob valve noise after you get it running better try to adj them .

 

[Bonnewagon]

Aside from the vacuum and emissions issues, the ticking could be a lifter collapsing or sticking. If it's an intake valve that would cause the affected cylinder to crap out and upset the motor like you describe. You could pour a quart of some automatic trans fluid in and run it for a while to try and unstick it, as ATF is loaded with detergents. If it loosens up and stops ticking and the motor smooths out, then change the oil.