I had my car running a few months back but I have been overhauling everything. I removed the spark plugs and wires to do some work on my headers. I also reworded the carb with new gaskets and such. Everything is back installed but I didnt remember how I ran the plug wires. However I found some diagrams online to help me out but they are definitely not the way I had them previously. Anyways I tried starting the car now and it does crank. I recorded some audio so many someone can identify this sound. The engine turns over for a few seconds but then doesn't crank. Warning the first buzzing sound you hear is the fuel pump, the sound that I am curious about is around the 44 second mark. To me and this is just a shot in the dark, It sounds like maybe the starter engages and at some point disengages thus causing that sound. And if this is the case what do I need to do about it.
Help Identify this Sound
- Thread starter tngbody
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Sounds like a bad (Bendix) starter drive, replace the starter imho unless you wanted to rebuild it but that's up to you. Not worth the time/effort these days, if that's a standard SBC starter, they're so cheap and plenty types to choose from full size stock replacement, and multitudes of mini, aftermarket high torque ones. Unless this is a (very) high compression race engine, I would stick with an OEM style MINI starter that uses the nose cone (to support the drive gear pinion shaft) vs the aftermarket ones without but it's entirely up to you.
I like the ones from the mid 90's LT1 engines (ie; Buick Roadmaster..) and have one in my rig with 10.5:1 compression, and it's been great.
Shop around you can find them cheaper, but I'd stick with NEW vs REMAN but that's just me.
HTH
I like the ones from the mid 90's LT1 engines (ie; Buick Roadmaster..) and have one in my rig with 10.5:1 compression, and it's been great.
Shop around you can find them cheaper, but I'd stick with NEW vs REMAN but that's just me.
HTH
The one I note above is MINI sized and goes in n out without touching the my header. They're ARH 1 7/8" primary tubes. I had a power master in there that I hated... It never turned quietly without squeaking and chirping and we spent time trying to shim it properly both starter to engine and starter in/out to it's mounting block.
The trans cooler lines give me more trouble than the headers.
The trans cooler lines give me more trouble than the headers.
I recently just changed out my trans cooler lines to the braided lines, so no issues from those as of yet.
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Nice, I wanted to do that but went with the inline tube stainless oem style lines and they run right under starter. My old plain steel lines had couplers I could easily undo these are one piece and didn't want to cut n flare, etc..oh well.
I think mines currently a Remy, I usually go with ACDelco when available no reason other than decent brand name. It's a pretty big dice roll these days with starters, alternators, etc so much so that I've started just getting the Duralast Gold stuff from AZ for friends and family. Lifetime Warranty and simple to get replacement, no questions asked by phone number lookup. I've used the warranty a few times in past couple years and it was a breeze.
Another question, Im looking on rockauto at 1995 Buick Roadmaster, in the starter section, are all of these mini type starters? And why exactly did you pick one brand over the others?
What engine are you running?
My experience with local economy, ORielly and Auto Zone; reman/rebuilt ...too many problems. Auto Zone Gold had good luck with.
SBC 388 with 153 tooth flexplate.
Agreed, I only bother with Duralast Gold New components. Oddly many places want core charges for NEW as well as REMAN items.
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