Help w alternator decision

Rus

Master Mechanic
Oct 7, 2016
272
93
Queensbury, NY
Ok. Id rather keep a 2 wire cause thats what car came with. Autozone tried to tell me they only sell a 3 wire at 63 amps. That sounds shitty to me. Id want a much higher amp. Im guessing summit, jegs, speedshop would be a place to get them. Now the red wire thats from the plug is to the fuse box correct?
That's what mine is. It's plug and play.

Here is the link to the adapter plug. They sell both car with gauge and one without.



Here is a quick article on this

 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
3,015
113
Galaxy far far away
I did a CS130 alternator on my Malibu. Very straight forward swap, and you'll get a 105 amps. Just need the pigtail adapter (or wire in a factory pigtail, cleaner,) and swap the V-belt pulley from your old one. This alternator is found on many chevy cars and trucks from 87 through 96ish, so it won't be hard to find one if in a pinch. Also reasonably priced.

EDIT: There are a couple of variations in the case of the CS130. The link I posted shows 87-91 Corvette, but mine came off a 1991 Chevy 2500 with a 454. As long as the mounting holes are straight across from each other, it will bolt up. I think I had to modify my spacer for the lower bolt, but it went smoothly.



I went the CS130 route too. They have an improved voltage regulator that charges better at lower RPMs than SI units.
 

383_StealthRam

Greasemonkey
Dec 29, 2016
103
63
I used to swear by the C130 style (OEM 105A) for many years in different apps until my original (circa early 90's) unit failed and I started using aftermarket, or even "Delco" ones and they never lasted more than a year or two. Mostly (rear) bearing failures as they have a tendency to run hot in the back half of the case. They make a 10mm wide bearing that is an upgrade from the 7mm stock bearing but even that fails eventually.

I've switched over to a (four wire, not that it matters, only needs one wire field exciter) AD244 which are 145A, and have much better cooling, and bearings over the CS130 case/internals. The AD244 is circa 2000-2005 Silverado application, which are abundant to find. Careful with the DR44G version which came later, and is a two wire that is intended for use with computer controlled alternator output control. They look very similar to the AD244 and I think the cases are actually interchangeable with minor mods.

Here's pic, CS130 first then.AD244 that replaced it. I went with (new, not reman) Duralast Gold AD244 comes with Lifetime Replacement Warranty.

The swap was simple, my setup uses the old TPI Engine front accessory drive brackets, all I had to do was enlarge the one hole in the alternator bracket mount since the AD244 uses larger bolt in the one side over the smaller CS130. (8mm vs 10mm threads)

cs130.JPG


ad244.JPG
 
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CopperNick

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
1,640
113
Canada
Have both Tuff STuff and PowerMaster single wire units in service in my vehicles. Prefer the one wire. Essentially, with one wire, you hook up a lead from the alternator terminal on the back of the case to the PLUS (+) side of the battery and make sure you have a solid ground from the case to the engine or the frame and you are good to go. i agree that keeping the three wire for a factory setup that hasn't been trashed is a good option but if the alternator is equipped to self-energize and will do it at low idle, no brainer for me. The fewer the wires you have to deal with the simpler things become and the simpler it is to chase a problem should it arise. JUst me.



Nick
 
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Zippymac

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 18, 2021
40
18
Dripping Springs Tx
My Set up is the CS130 with a PWM signal generator.
There you see it in the car - only needs a 3-5 volt power source, ground and run the PWM wire out to the 'L' pin on alternator.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
8,905
113
Michigan
For my Monte since I need the capability to run everything at idle I went with a DC Power 180 amp alternator that puts out 130 amps at idle.
I have 14+ volts no matter what I turn on and run a 1/0 power feed to the alternator.
 
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g0thiac

G-Body Guru
Sep 6, 2020
659
63
For my Monte since I need the capability to run everything at idle I went with a DC Power 180 amp alternator that puts out 130 amps at idle.
I have 14+ volts no matter what I turn on and run a 1/0 power feed to the alternator.
For my Monte since I need the capability to run everything at idle I went with a DC Power 180 amp alternator that puts out 130 amps at idle.
I have 14+ volts no matter what I turn on and run a 1/0 power feed to the alternator.
Crazy, 180 amp though? What kind of stuff you running that needs that much current haha.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
8,905
113
Michigan
Crazy, 180 amp though? What kind of stuff you running that needs that much current haha.

Dual Intrepid fans
16" pusher fan
Trans fan
Electric in line Stewart EMP water pump
MSD 7AL-3
Paxton 300 fuel pump for the engine
Mallory 140 fuel pump for the Nitrous
Nitrous solenoids
Bottle heater
Then your basic accessories. power windows, locks, sunroof, both front seats, lights etc.

And of coarse the plan to install a trunk mount AC system that I started doing mock ups for.

20180804_162516_resized.jpg
 
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xylorex

Master Mechanic
Aug 2, 2018
256
63
New Orleans, LA
when making alternator selections for my monte carlo and k10, i found the powermaster catalog very useful.

i have a hard copy, not a fan of the electronic version but here is a link: http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/catalog.html
it is extremely useful.

i ended up with the 1-wire also. decided to go with the CS130D after studying the catalog, i like the internal fan and side mount lug. i have the late 80's/90's gm serpentine kit, after studying the powermaster catalog i went with part # 684061.

photo is from my k10 (check out those rusted up $750 ceramic coated hooker super comp headers with like 800 miles on them, never again)

IMG_20200917_185110.jpg
 
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