Help with header install

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

That is the default setting for the gauge when it is unplugged according to my FSM. As for the bogging, in one of the previous pics you had the intake removed and thus, the distributor. Check your base timing and be sure it is not way off. Also, look for a big vacuum leak-like a disconnected or leaking vacuum brake booster or line.

 

[Chillin014]

That is the default setting for the gauge when it is unplugged according to my FSM. As for the bogging, in one of the previous pics you had the intake removed and thus, the distributor. Check your base timing and be sure it is not way off. Also, look for a big vacuum leak-like a disconnected or leaking vacuum brake booster or line.

yeah but those were old pictures from my edelbrock intake installation I did about a month ago. I never set the timing real good after that, its off a little bit im sure. But i have driven the car fine since then and it didnt act like that except maybe once briefly and I thought the carb was just goofin up. I really hope this is something like a misplaced spark plug wire...so im gonna go check that, take those pics and then come back in awhile.

 

[Chillin014]

alright. Good news, I did mix up two of the spark plug wires and the car is running MUCH better now. I feel the power!

here are the pictures of my ugly engine bay and the a/c bracket deal.

 

[markcp]

I had to fab my AC bracket also to go around my Dynomax headers on my 78 with a 350. Looks somewhat like I did.

 

[Chillin014]

I had to fab my AC bracket also to go around my Dynomax headers on my 78 with a 350. Looks somewhat like I did.

yeah the only part I felt uneasy about was the long *ss bolt I had to use. I guess I was just worried about tightening it down extremely hard because its a thin bolt to be that long. I made the spacer between the bracket and manifold flange out of a deep socket haha..cut it up.

Modifying the bracket was actually simple though, just a matter of cutting the right leg off. I wish I hadnt bought this stupid bracket from summit, im going to try to get a refund and return it.

 

[markcp]

hahaha I bought a cheap bracket from Summit also, It didn't even look like it would come close to fitting? Maybe you bought my return? They did take it back. I used a piece of 1/2 pipe cut as a spacer. I also had the AC unit tapped out to a bigger thread because the metric was stripping out.

 

[megaladon6]

summit is really good about returns. i've sent back parts that were sitting around for a year!

markcp--in your pic it looks like the wire for the temp switch/sensor on the head is contacting your header.

 

[Chillin014]

hahaha I bought a cheap bracket from Summit also, It didn't even look like it would come close to fitting? Maybe you bought my return? They did take it back. I used a piece of 1/2 pipe cut as a spacer. I also had the AC unit tapped out to a bigger thread because the metric was stripping out.

no way, but as someone else said, maybe for another type of a/c compressor it would work. I noticed on your bracket there is a bolt going through where on my bracket I dont remember having one. EDIT- maybe im retarded and just didnt replace a bolt, for some reason i didnt remember removing one but its probably laying on my work bench. lol nvm on that. clean engine bay though..

Also, i was wondering what that thing was sitting there below the header flange, thats the temp sensor? Mine doesnt have a female plug coming off it so maybe its broken. I'm gonna have to buy a new one and hook it up. Yay more of my gauges will work now.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Yeah, the temp switch is usually the one in the head, but on some models the temp sensor is in that location on the opposite head. I had a problem with that wire burning on my headers too, but I went with a factory bracket that locates it off the headers to solve it. I found it on a 305 powered 80's car and then zip tied the wire to it. It goes under the valve cover nut just above the sender and extends about an inch or two out from there. this is part of the reason I went with an ugly, factory look on my car. It permits the retention of a lot of neat solutions to seemingly minor problems-plus it is cheaper too. I may be wrong, but I think the sender in the head you have is for the gauge by the looks of it. Check it with a volt-ohm meter to be sure. If it has no continuity, it's the switch. If it has some continuity it is probably the sender. Second observation I am fuzzy on: I think the G body used the threaded port on the front of the intake manifold for the temp gauge sender and not the head. I seem to remember the F bodies being in the head as I used to have a seemingly high temp reading in a Camaro I did for a friend. I do not have this hooked up on my car right now so I am not 100% sure what is what. The harness I have from the Grand Prix was odd in that it had a oil pressure gauge wire but no tach or water temp gauge wiring. I have since sorted the tach and got it to work, but have not set out to tackle the temp gauge as of yet. It and the speedo are the last two things I need to sort out in the dash.

Oh, and Chillin, you have a loose plug wire on the passenger's side bank in the photo. I would also advise you to get a good set of plug wires from MSD, Taylor, etc instead of what you have ( I am thinking stock replacement). You need them with headers since the radiated heat will kill the boots in short order. Trust me, I have been there and went through 2 sets of stocks in 3 days before biting the bullet for a set from MSD. They have been on my car for 10 years without trouble. If you get the stock length ones, you can use the factory G body looms and run all but two of them under the headers like they are on my car. Also, you seem to have the correct brackets and hoses for a LG4 G body. mIne are a little different because I have the ones for a L69 F body so I can run the dual snorkel setup.

 

[markcp]

summit is really good about returns. i've sent back parts that were sitting around for a year!
markcp--in your pic it looks like the wire for the temp switch/sensor on the head is contacting your header.

Yes, The wire needs to be moved, it was just a temporary route for it.

Chillin, It was a real puzzle figuring out where all the nuts and bolts went for my accessory brackets. I think I used up all of them though? I did notice on your picture that one was missing going from bracket into the ac compressor. That was one of them I had tapped to a larger standard thread. I purchased MSD wires like 85 Cutlass mentioned. They are a bit more money, but look nice and hold up to the heat better. They come with clip on numbers to label the wires also. It makes tracing them out much easier.