Help with rust through floor pans w pics

[88ss408]

Wire wheel or sandblast the floor then you know what you have to work with. And then get some 18G sheet metal and patch it up. Seamseal the welds and then coat it with truck bed stuff. She will be nice and strong.

 

[crucial118]

Ok, found them at Goodmark.. Question, in pic it doesn't appear to have seat braces, etc on the new floor? Is that correct? How Do I reuse and transfer existing seat mounts and bracing to new one? Thanks guys

Look further - they make them also.

Please post a link, cause I'm in the middle of replacing my floors and was not able to find either the front and/or rear floor brace for our cars. Every place I contacted do not make them. Now the inner seat mounts are available for a bucket seat conversion, but that's all I could find.

 

[pencero]

experiment w/ some rust-oleum 'rust converter' if you don't feel like doing the whole floor immediately. If it bubbles up for a long time instead of forming a hard surface right away, the floor is about to give out then. That means theres not any material for the rust converter to 'convert' back into material left b/c too much oxidation already happened. It's expensive but a small amount goes a long way. Sheet metal is an effective replacement material but typically has no rust proofing that it virtually requires you to spray paint it black or coat it in rhino liner. It even starts to surface rust immediately from the moment you leave fingerprints on it trying to anchor it in place. Guys down South are probly scratching their heads like 'wtf sheet metal doesnt rust that fast...' you guys have it so easy down there. lol. The goodmark floors are only slightly better quality than sheet metal, but much more resistant to rust w/o the need for much additional rust-proofing, also slightly stiffer than a sheetmetal floor would feel. Having had both, I recall the sheetmetal welded floor as feeling 'soft' in comparison to the goodmark floor. Also the sheetmetal floor I had occasionally made irritating trash can noises as it expanded and contracted while the car is heating up during winter. I guess you get what you pay for though.

 

[Geo's66]

You could spray a few cans of rhino liner or rustoleum everywhere and pray for another few years if you dont feel like doing all that but obviously those floors have HIV

Literally laughed out loud with the HIV comment, pencero!!! I'm ordering the new pan this week, also hope goodmark has the torque boxes as well( going through OPG, guys).....

Now, I think I'm going to disconnect everything and jack body up with 6x6's, roll-out frame and go to town.... Thankfully I'm doing this myself so it won't be much $$ rather than many hours.... Dammit, knew it would come to this. But the car would rot outside in Summer as it'll be a driver when done.

 

[OCS]

One more... This already looks like it was patched once... I know where the holes were fiberglassed before...

That is the factory drain plug. Unless you're doing the entire pan at once, I'd leave the body on the frame. It seems to me that would be alot of extra work, but obviously it's up to you.
If it still seems solid around the seat belt mounts, you could just cut around them and leave them in.
Are your cross brace/outer seat mounts too rusty to salvage?

 

[Bonnewagon]

If you have a welder, just do it all. In fact my excuse to the Wife for buying a welder was holes in the floor boards! I keep old doors and hoods around so I can cut panels out and use them for patching. I can't see buying repo floor panels since they will be under the carpet anyway. A total floor or trunk is another story, but it would need to be some special car to go to that length.

 

[OCS]

In fact my excuse to the Wife for buying a welder was holes in the floor boards!

Me too!

 

[Geo's66]

Thanks guys... The seat belt holes I THINK are ok, I'd have to remove and re-weld the torque boxes too.... This car is the factory 4-speed, 1,700 were made. With a couple sons, etc. I figure do it right.... Keep you posted with more pics after a pro body man friend looks at this tomorrow.

 

[Geo's66]

Ok guys, just received the full floor pan from good mark... Will post pics over next week on progress..

 

[Geo's66]

Ok, drilled all the spot welds from braces that hold seats, etc... I'm assuming there are braces underneath the floor pan itself that need to be drilled out as well on my old floor? Anyone have any pics of how you did this?