Hey just wanted to say hello

[Blake442]

The Chevy 350 will drop in once you swap out the mounts, but you'll have to buy all the accessories and brackets for the motor, because the only things you'll be able to re-use from the Olds are the alternator and the distributor cap.

There's also some wiring that will need to be lengthened for the starter and alternator, since they are on opposite sides as they are on an Olds.

The swap to SBC is relatively simple, but there are a lot of little things to keep tabs on, that all add up.

If you have a 200-4R trans, than a sbc will bolt right up because of the universal bellhousing, but if your car has a TH-350 or THM-200, than you'll need a trans with the Chevy pattern. There are a few TH350's with the dual pattern bellhouse as well, but they aren't very abundant.

An Olds 350 will have no problem making the power you're after... But then again, a SBC would have no problem either.

 

[dan2286]

Welcome.

Where are you located? Here is a good starting point for you, http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=47973 .

I believe this guy is or was a machinist and he knows his stuff. With this engine, the only parts you would need to buy new are a cam/lifter set, oil pump, water pump, and a timing chain set. You could buy a set of used heads and have the machine work done to them, and you should be able to use the rest of the needed parts off of your 307. You will also need to find a non-ccc hei distributor and carb. You could have a 12-13 second engine for around a $1000 bucks total, probably less depending on what type of deals you can find. If you do decide to get this engine, take advice from this guy to get it finished. Remember, Olds engines are very different from Chevys. If you just get your parts from a summit catalog, Olds will definitely be more expensive. If you look around for good deals and are patient, you can end up with a powerful Olds motor for not too much money.

You also have to keep in mind that with the power you are looking for, the rest of the drive train will need to be upgraded. A th350 trans may be able to take the power levels you are after, but it would be best to get a beefed up one. Also, if you are looking for gas mileage, you may want to use a 200-4r trans, which has overdrive. Those in stock form will not take those power levels, so you would need to get a beefed up one. You may also need to consider your rear end if it is the stock 7.5, which it most likely is. That depends on if you want to drag race the car a lot. They do not take much abuse if used with slicks, but may take normal street driving.

Remember, making a car go fast usually takes lots of money.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I'll also say that it sounds like you were not really a ricer, but rather an enthusiast who likes imports. Ricer implies things tacked on without thought, kinda like cheap plastic chrome portholes on a pimpmobile rollin' on 24's. As someone who likes vehicles of many different types, I tend to reserve "Ricer" for clueless teenagers with tri level wings, dual wipers, broken body kits, and general automotive cheese. BTW, My next car project will be an import, but done properly. That won't make me a ricer, but rather a guy who built a classic Datsun PL510, TE-27 Corolla, EG Civic or B13 Sentra (my favorite Japanese imports, BTW.)

 

[historyg]

hey, I wasn't a ricer, i just said i was a "ricer", i though everyone might get a laugh from it. I actually really liked my honda and I miss it a lot, I actually have another one, that my brother drives, I had to fully restore it because it took 6 years of abusive driving from him. I could take those things apart and put them back together in probably less then a week, because i refused to go to a mechanic when i was younger, somewhat due to funds lol. Anyways I love cars, and if i could I would drop out of school and just work on them all day, but my parents would get mad, and I finished a ba in history and adolescent teaching so i might as well finish up with that.

Thanks everyone, I am going to look into a olds 350 block. dan thxs for the site, I think i am going to look for a block and maybe start to do the machine work, if it does turn out to be around 1000 dollars i Will be happy. I am not in a rush and after working on car i have become patient, I am not looking to drag race now, and my current 307 can get me to grad school right now besides it eating gas like water. And i am located in Brooklyn New York

85 Cutlass Brougham thanks for the posted i read your built page and it was great, I am glad things started to shape up for you. your knowledge seems great, and I hope to ask for your advice once i get into the build. If your going to go with a build i would go with the eg civic, it cheap as crap to find riced out, and its body is really easy to work with, if you weren't so far away i would find you one for you dirt cheap and help you work on it. I had a friend with a eg hatch completely gutted running a b18c5 engine that really moved. My best friend owns a s2000 that i plan to by when ever i get money, and it is a real master piece when it comes to import cars.

the real reason i probably want to swap the engine on this olds, is how slow my civic was, I never really messed with the engine it was a completely stock d16y5 which is a economical engine. I did crappy upgrades like intake and full stainless 2.5 exhaust with vibrant muffler and resonator, but it was built for autocrossing so i spent most of my money on suspension which totaled to about 2500 bucks. The first thing i am going to do to the olds is fix up the suspension, even with the kybs in it now, the thing bounces like an American car, and i stepped out a few times with this 307 engine so i am scarred if i actually had some real power.

Thanks everyone I hope this thread keeps on picking up 😀

 

[historyg]

hey guys i found this on ebay, think it would be a good start, hes in new york so i might be able to pick it up

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Olds-350 ... 06.c0.m245

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

The suspension on the G body is easily upgraded using factory parts from the junkyard. Find a car with the FE-2 or F-41 suspension and take the fast ratio steering box and both sway bars. The bars alone will make a night and day difference, and the pair is usually less than $50 with hardware. Standard G body suspension is a VERY scary thing to drive if you are used to a car that can in any way go around a corner. You don't so much drive one as you do sail it.

As for school, finish it at all costs!!!!! It does not matter how smart you are in this world. If you don't have that piece of paper it is not easy to get a good job. Ask me how I know. I have a 150-160 IQ and have delivered pizza all my adult life. You may get lucky without a degree, but it is far more difficult than if you had it.

 

[historyg]

Hey 86 cutlass thxs if you don't mind I rather have your name rather then call you 86 cutlass

here's my plans so far pls chime in if it sounds bad
I have been sourcing for somwhat middle price suspension parts I have come up with the following for my set up
1) Koni reds and or bilstiens
2) ungraded aftermarket sway which I think is 23 mm or a 1/2 not sure with the American siZe
poly endlinks in front
3) undecided on springs I saw some good customs ones on a site but they were mighty expensive
4) this part is where I'm stuck I need the rear axle assemply but the aftermarket ones I have been looking at are really expensive, I need something to handle 400 hp as this is aroud my goals, but I'm not sure where to get a good one

5) depending on funds I might change tie rods and stablizer bars with poly bushings

I really want to have a good amount of tq avalible at idle, so I think I am going to go with a chevy 350 fully built due to it's price ranger compares to the olds 350

anyways any suggestions would be great, not that what everyone has told hasent been usefull thxs again

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Well, I don't like to give out my real name online unless I am going to meet someone in real life. I even use an alias on social networking sites. Just use 85 CB if it is easier to type out like a lot of people do.

The factory front bar is 1.25 in up front and .75 in out back. The front is usually fine, but I would prefer a bigger rear so as to neutralize the car a bit. The biggest issue with these cars is the front suspension geometry. It gains positive camber on compression and has terrible bump steer. GM designed these cars with lawyers in mind, and gave them excessive amounts of understeer from the factory. They were still reeling from the issues with the Corvair and didn't want to get sued again. However, the issues can be solved. The tie rods need to be made level with the LCA plane and the spindles and upper arms need to be replaced with B body spindles, and aftermarket tubular uppers. The tie rod issue is one that does not have an off the shelf solution yet, and is made worse by the B body spindles. I have a few ideas that may fix it, but have not tried any yet. (BTW, much of my knowledge of suspension geometry comes from Sport Compact Car...lol)

For a rear axle, the cheapest good one is the 8.5 10 bolt out of an 85+ turbo Regal or 442. It may also have been used in 1984, but I am not certain about that. Expect to pay $400-1,000 for it though as it is rare and in demand. The 7.5 the car came with can take that kind of power on street tires...usually... but it is not good for drag strip or manual transmission use.