That only works if you KNOW the engine has its original paint and original 4 barrel carb. 2-barrel carb versions I believe were not high compression either, but 9:1 isn't bad for the low-comps. I can make a gold 455 appear in about an hour if I really wanted to. Look for the casting numbers. Leopard can't change his spots, but he can paint over them. But the 350 started appearing in blue I think in 1973. Not sure.
IIRC, the best chance of a 350 being high compression is you would look for a "2" to start the casting number on top of the block above the timing chain area. If it starts with a 2 and ends with an 8, you're in the sweet spot of 68-70. GM used a 2 to start the casting number and was used up until 1976, so you still aren't always out of the woods.
If you see a 3A or 5 at the start of the casting number, forget it. It's a later 350 and 77 and up had the displacement tattooed on the side of the blocks, and they were definitely low compression.
Pistons and head chambers MAKE the compression. So even if it's not a high compression engine to start with, you can make it one with the right choices.
5 or 6 numbered heads are likely the best, 6's having slightly bigger exhaust valves, and W-31s getting 2" intakes. Again, in that 68-70 year, but you can get by with 7, 7-sub-A or 8s (7-sub-A's are not to be confused with the 7A 307 smog heads) from the 71-72 time frame as well. If you see A.I.R. tube holes on top of the exhuaust ports...just...no.