new ac lines low and high port for sanden compressor on ls swap
- Thread starter johnnunez29
- Start date
damn i bought a low pressure port https://www.ebay.com/itm/3625459558...d=link&campid=5335822911&toolid=20001&mkevt=1 to put on the line where the orifice tube goes (glad you sent that repair kit, mine is tore up in the pipe) thanksYou don't have to worry about the LO side service port you have that already on the ACCUMULATOR at the EVAPORATOR outlet. That just needs the r134a adapter for the quick connect style. That big blue cap on the ACCUMULATOR needs it's hose to go back to the COMPRESSOR inlet, it's Sanden they usually are marked IN/OUT or LO/HI right on the manifold fitting, or case. Look for that. else find the model number of that compressor and head over to Sanden web site and locate the technical info on it to confirm it's port configuration.
You can then decide where you want to put a HI side service port if none already exists. Basically it can go anywhere from the COMPRESSOR's outlet pipe/hose to the CONDENSOR INLET, or CONDENSOR OUTLET over to the EVLAPORATOR INLET (aka where the orifice tube lives). It's up to you where you can fit it, and access it for service charging and diagnosis.
On G bodies the CONDENSOR outlet line to the EVAPORATOR inlet is usually a solid (no hose) 3/8" O.D. tube that runs along the PASS fender well and under the coolant reservoir to the orifice tube connection. You can possibly put something like this repair TEE into that line and it will provide a HI side port.
If you have the system open, and are fabricating/crimping your own hoses/lines, etc you can but crimp fittings with ports built in like in the pic Agleans posted earlier where both are right there at the Compressor inlet/outlet. Vintage Air, and other online AC fittings vendors have all kinds of options on that front. Good information here from 4 Seasons on all kinds of AC fittings, seals, sizes, shapes, etc..
If you feel you might need to move the orifice tube location to maybe the other side of the ACCUMULATOR, facing forward you can probably *carefully* bend that EVAPORATOR inlet tube (with ACCUMULATOR removed, then cut off the original tube end, and replace it with the orifice tube repair kit.
I used one on mine because the original EVAP inlet tube was bent up and the orifice tube wouldn't slide in properly. Here's before/after pic of that installed.
BEFORE
View attachment 242279
AFTER
View attachment 242280
It really doesn't matter so long as you understand and identify the two sides of the system. then it becomes a matter of practically and accessibility since you have a lot packed in there under the hood.
HTH
and yes. im making my own lines, i have very limited space in this engine bay. i have the condensor hose tips made already but none complete, i need to put some heat shield on them.You don't have to worry about the LO side service port you have that already on the ACCUMULATOR at the EVAPORATOR outlet. That just needs the r134a adapter for the quick connect style. That big blue cap on the ACCUMULATOR needs it's hose to go back to the COMPRESSOR inlet, it's Sanden they usually are marked IN/OUT or LO/HI right on the manifold fitting, or case. Look for that. else find the model number of that compressor and head over to Sanden web site and locate the technical info on it to confirm it's port configuration.
You can then decide where you want to put a HI side service port if none already exists. Basically it can go anywhere from the COMPRESSOR's outlet pipe/hose to the CONDENSOR INLET, or CONDENSOR OUTLET over to the EVLAPORATOR INLET (aka where the orifice tube lives). It's up to you where you can fit it, and access it for service charging and diagnosis.
On G bodies the CONDENSOR outlet line to the EVAPORATOR inlet is usually a solid (no hose) 3/8" O.D. tube that runs along the PASS fender well and under the coolant reservoir to the orifice tube connection. You can possibly put something like this repair TEE into that line and it will provide a HI side port.
If you have the system open, and are fabricating/crimping your own hoses/lines, etc you can but crimp fittings with ports built in like in the pic Agleans posted earlier where both are right there at the Compressor inlet/outlet. Vintage Air, and other online AC fittings vendors have all kinds of options on that front. Good information here from 4 Seasons on all kinds of AC fittings, seals, sizes, shapes, etc..
If you feel you might need to move the orifice tube location to maybe the other side of the ACCUMULATOR, facing forward you can probably *carefully* bend that EVAPORATOR inlet tube (with ACCUMULATOR removed, then cut off the original tube end, and replace it with the orifice tube repair kit.
I used one on mine because the original EVAP inlet tube was bent up and the orifice tube wouldn't slide in properly. Here's before/after pic of that installed.
BEFORE
View attachment 242279
AFTER
View attachment 242280
It really doesn't matter so long as you understand and identify the two sides of the system. then it becomes a matter of practically and accessibility since you have a lot packed in there under the hood.
HTH
You just need this R134a adapter to go on that accumulator legacy "R12" port, aka which is just standard 1/4" thread that most all AC Gauge Sets come with.
"Technically" you don't need it, (you could still attach gauges, and charge, etc with the R12 fitting and hose) but you should put it on so anyone working on it knows it's been converted, and you can use the quick connect hose adapters with the shutoff valves going forward.
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Excuse my ignorance. I have never done any of this and much less ac. This my first time on a build like this and it’s kicking my *ss!. Soo in addition to the port on the accumulator (the can sitting near the orifice tube) I do not need any other ports? Or should I buy another fitting that goes on the orifice tube side that’s low and let the one on the can be high? Sorry man I’m confused lolYou just need this R134a adapter to go on that accumulator legacy "R12" port, aka which is just standard 1/4" thread that most all AC Gauge Sets come with.
"Technically" you don't need it, (you could still attach gauges, and charge, etc with the R12 fitting and hose) but you should put it on so anyone working on it knows it's been converted, and you can use the quick connect hose adapters with the shutoff valves going forward.
Four Seasons 59976 Four Seasons Air Conditioning Retrofit Service Port Adapters | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Four Seasons Air Conditioning Retrofit Service Port Adapters with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Air Conditioning Service Port Adapters at Summit Racing.
View attachment 242295
I'm helping a buddy with a 86 MCSS AC system rebuild, we had to yank the old orifice tube out with my trusty tool, works like a champ....I've had it over 30 yrs....there's also alternate center screw that can thread into the orifice "tube" itself like an ex-out to extract one where the plastic is all mangled and the ears broken off, etc.. since you'd cut off the damaged portion of the EVAP inlet tube to use the repair sleeve anyway, you don't have to worry about.
That I know of I don’t have an r12 fitting. Currently only have the one on the accumulator (grey can) that is threaded. So I can put the port you listed on that one. Do I need to add another port to the orifice tube hose? Nothing can go near condenser as there is no space. If I need a second port it def has to come from right there
Def look into that. I mangled mine. Heated it up a bit with a lighter and still wouldn’t budge.
No, you can't "let" the one on the can be the HI because that is the LO side of the system. The HI side is in the plumbing locations I outline in my previous post.
In this pic, you have to install a HI SIDE port somewhere in the location of the RED ARROWS, that is between COMPRESSOR to CONDENSOR or CONDENSOR to ORIFICE (inlet to EVAPORATOR). So if your making a hose that goes from the CONDENSOR to the ORIFICE tube, get the same fitting you posted from eBAY, just find it for the HI SIDE port as they are different sizes.
No need to apologize, AC systems are not super complicated but I'm thinking that if you're not sure about the basic fundamentals it might really be something you try and locate a local AC specialty shop for, and have them re-plumb the system for you. You'll probably save yourself a lot of frustration as you seem to have a lot of other things going on with you build to sort out. Let an local expert help you with the AC at this point, or after you've done all the plumbing/hoses which is the bulk of the manual work.
HTH
