How to lean out a Rochester 2bbl?

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Those standards are tough. Your car would pass with flying colors in most other states. Here is what I recommend:

1) Your CO2 is very high and your O2 is very low. Normally this is fine, but on a car with an AIR pump that feeds air to the cat during warm part throttle and idle, I would expect the o2 to be higher, maybe 3.0 to 4.0 and the CO2 to be lower maybe 11 or so. Either your AIR pump is not working correctly, or your car in 1981 did not come equipped with an AIR pump designed to pump air to the cat. Do a visual inspection and look for the hose coming off the Air pump solenoid going to the exhaust. If you have that, then you need to see if the air is going to the cat. Not always easy. You can often disconnect the line at the pump and check it at idle, but also check the integrity of the air line all the way down to the cat. Check for vacuum leaks on any lines to the solenoid. I know a lot of people say that you don't need the AIR pump and in 49 states that may be true. But if are trying to make 71 then you need everything working 100%. If you have air being pumped into the cat you will lower HC.

2) Consider some sort of cleaning or decarbonizing treatment. Seafoam, Techron (at least a couple tank fulls), there are others. There are also products like Run Rite that have a system to feed fluid through a vacuum line that helps remove carbon. I haven't personally tried any of these, but they are inexpensive and may help you squeak by.

3) Consider replacing the O2 sensor. There are ways to test them, but a new one is like $18. If you are not sure how old it is I would replace it. They do go out of range over time and slowly start to drive the car rich. Yes, you car has good CO readings, but with a new O2 your CO might come down, which would also bring down your HC some.

4) Can you cheat a little on timing? Retarded timing definitely lowers HC. If you can get away with just 2 degrees it might help. The sheet says 16, but Autozone says 15. Check the underhood decal and confirm. I know this is crazy, but if the ring on the balancer was to slide out of place it would affect the reading. Also wondering how a ignition retard box could be used here. The tech would check base time which may not be affected by the retard box, but when reconnected the box would keep the actual reading retarded. You would need to test this. This is way out there too, but a custom burned PROM that changed actual timing from the ECM could help. Base time would be set, but when you connect up the timing the ECM would use less advance, effectively retarding the timing.

5) How old is your cat? A new cat can have a dramatic impact on emissions and will likely get you through. If you cat is more than a couple years old you should consider this as an option if nothing else pans out. I think you need to install a CA approved cat which are very expensive. I have read on some other boards that the CA approved cats are actually really good at pulling emissions down. Good odds that this would get you passed, but no guarantees. There are some online videos (one from Walker actually) that show how to test a cat with an infrared heat gun. You might look into that to see if you get a red flag. If you replace your cat, I would definitely throw in a new O2 as well to maximize lifespan of the cat.

That's all I have right now. I would start with the cheap and easy stuff and go from there.
 
Bonnewagon said:
You are right, all is well besides that 25 mph reading. All I can think of is that at 25 mph you've just upshifted and the carb is too rich with that particular load on the motor. I believe the MAP sensor (vacuum) and tach should be telling the computer that the load/rpm has changed and should adjust the mixture accordingly. Hopefully AlanB will check in and lend his knowledge here, he seems to be fluent in emissions testing.
Thanks, Bonnewagon. BTW, how would I go about fixing that idle problem i'm having?
 
AlanB said:
Those standards are tough. Your car would pass with flying colors in most other states. Here is what I recommend:

1) Your CO2 is very high and your O2 is very low. Normally this is fine, but on a car with an AIR pump that feeds air to the cat during warm part throttle and idle, I would expect the o2 to be higher, maybe 3.0 to 4.0 and the CO2 to be lower maybe 11 or so. Either your AIR pump is not working correctly, or your car in 1981 did not come equipped with an AIR pump designed to pump air to the cat. Do a visual inspection and look for the hose coming off the Air pump solenoid going to the exhaust. If you have that, then you need to see if the air is going to the cat. Not always easy. You can often disconnect the line at the pump and check it at idle, but also check the integrity of the air line all the way down to the cat. Check for vacuum leaks on any lines to the solenoid. I know a lot of people say that you don't need the AIR pump and in 49 states that may be true. But if are trying to make 71 then you need everything working 100%. If you have air being pumped into the cat you will lower HC.

2) Consider some sort of cleaning or decarbonizing treatment. Seafoam, Techron (at least a couple tank fulls), there are others. There are also products like Run Rite that have a system to feed fluid through a vacuum line that helps remove carbon. I haven't personally tried any of these, but they are inexpensive and may help you squeak by.

3) Consider replacing the O2 sensor. There are ways to test them, but a new one is like $18. If you are not sure how old it is I would replace it. They do go out of range over time and slowly start to drive the car rich. Yes, you car has good CO readings, but with a new O2 your CO might come down, which would also bring down your HC some.

4) Can you cheat a little on timing? Retarded timing definitely lowers HC. If you can get away with just 2 degrees it might help. The sheet says 16, but Autozone says 15. Check the underhood decal and confirm. I know this is crazy, but if the ring on the balancer was to slide out of place it would affect the reading. Also wondering how a ignition retard box could be used here. The tech would check base time which may not be affected by the retard box, but when reconnected the box would keep the actual reading retarded. You would need to test this. This is way out there too, but a custom burned PROM that changed actual timing from the ECM could help. Base time would be set, but when you connect up the timing the ECM would use less advance, effectively retarding the timing.

5) How old is your cat? A new cat can have a dramatic impact on emissions and will likely get you through. If you cat is more than a couple years old you should consider this as an option if nothing else pans out. I think you need to install a CA approved cat which are very expensive. I have read on some other boards that the CA approved cats are actually really good at pulling emissions down. Good odds that this would get you passed, but no guarantees. There are some online videos (one from Walker actually) that show how to test a cat with an infrared heat gun. You might look into that to see if you get a red flag. If you replace your cat, I would definitely throw in a new O2 as well to maximize lifespan of the cat.

That's all I have right now. I would start with the cheap and easy stuff and go from there.

WOW! I'm going to try as much of this as possible. I was hoping I wouldn't have to spend the money for a cat, but I'll do whatever I have to. Thanks a lot for all of this info!
 
I just took a look at my car.
I'm not 100% familiar with the air pump components yet, but I looked at the cat itself, and it had a tube coming out of the side of it which was capped off. I assume this is where the air pump would hook up to. Is this something that would be worth adding myself? I also checked the underhood decal and it said 15 degrees.
 
I think you've got your answer- as AlanB said that CAT must have the aspirator tube connected. Your CAT is working with one hand tied behind it's back without that tube hooked up as the fresh air helps burn up the unburned fuel (HC). You do have a functional air pump, yes? As for the cold idle, you must adjust the choke properly. This link to a link will help explain.http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=33376&hilit=+choke#.UYbZ0Uq_zIQ AlanB are you a State Inspector or are you just an emissions wizz? You really know your stuff!
 
Like Bonnewagon said, I am pretty sure that your car should have a air pipe running from the solenoid to the cat. Aftermarket cats are often spec'd with the fitting at the cat so they can use the same cat on a larger number of models, many of which don't have the provision for the air pipe to the cat. So the fitting on the cat is not a sure sign.

I have no sure way of verifying whether the 81 Regal had a line to the cat. It either works one of two ways:
1) 3 way valve - Air the exhaust manifolds during cold start, air to the car during idle and part throttle when warm, air diverted to atmosphere (or sometimes air cleaner) during WOT and decel.

2) 2 way valve - Air to the exhaust during cold start, then diverted to Atmosphere or air cleaner.

You should be able to visually inspect the valve to see if there are three lines or two lines. If the 81 was not designed by GM with the line to the cat then there is not much you can do about it. You will just have to focus on the other things. You might consider making a new post with a heading something like " Emissions question for 1981 3.8 owners." You might find someone on the board who can tell you what their car has. Ask them if they have a line running to the cat.

And Bonnewagon thanks for the compliment but I an not an inspector or an emissions whiz. Years ago I had access to some pretty expensive equipment and took advantage of it to fix some weird problems and learn a bit about emissions.
 
AlanB said:
Like Bonnewagon said, I am pretty sure that your car should have a air pipe running from the solenoid to the cat. Aftermarket cats are often spec'd with the fitting at the cat so they can use the same cat on a larger number of models, many of which don't have the provision for the air pipe to the cat. So the fitting on the cat is not a sure sign.

I have no sure way of verifying whether the 81 Regal had a line to the cat. It either works one of two ways:
1) 3 way valve - Air the exhaust manifolds during cold start, air to the car during idle and part throttle when warm, air diverted to atmosphere (or sometimes air cleaner) during WOT and decel.

2) 2 way valve - Air to the exhaust during cold start, then diverted to Atmosphere or air cleaner.

You should be able to visually inspect the valve to see if there are three lines or two lines. If the 81 was not designed by GM with the line to the cat then there is not much you can do about it. You will just have to focus on the other things. You might consider making a new post with a heading something like " Emissions question for 1981 3.8 owners." You might find someone on the board who can tell you what their car has. Ask them if they have a line running to the cat.

And Bonnewagon thanks for the compliment but I an not an inspector or an emissions whiz. Years ago I had access to some pretty expensive equipment and took advantage of it to fix some weird problems and learn a bit about emissions.

Ok, I'll check that out. It didn't even occur to me that this thread isn't about carburetors anymore!
 
I am starting to doubt that you car came with the line to the cat. I found a photo from a 82 Regal on eBay here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1982...3?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f24da0fdd#v4-42

The engine photo shows the diverter valve. The hose coming off the top looks like it goes to atmosphere. There appears to be some sort of muffler attached to the end of that hose to keep it quiet. The other line looks like it goes to the driver's side exhaust manifold. There is a pipe going over the valve cover to the passenger side, which is probably an exhaust line to the pass. side manifold. Autozone shows a photo of a two way valve that looks just the one in the photo on eBay. I.e. no line to the cat.

Take a real close look at your car anyway to see if you have the same setup.

By the way, the inspection sheet you posted showed timing at 16 BTDC, which I assumed was the spec. Since your underhood decal shows the spec as 15, I think the 16 number could be actual timing reading recorded by the tech. If so, I would adjust your timing to at least 15. Actually, I would test their variance and go to about 12 or 13. I have read that CA allows up to a 3 deg. variance. If they let it go at 12 then you gained 4 deg. retarded which would help HC. How much? Don't know, if you try it you can let us know.
 
Hey guys, Rock Auto shows a converter air tube (aspirator) for an '81 Regal, and even a Walker universal tube for replacement CAT's, so perhaps there should be one. Check these out.
1981 BUICK REGAL 3.8L 231cid V6 : Emission : Air Injection Pipe Price
KEMPARTS Part # 160418
Air Injection Pipe SINGLE - w/o TURBO OE #25518946; Base Model [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining)

Part Image
$3.01
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AT105 {#25518946} Number of Outlets: 2; Mounting Style: Screw-in; Mounting Location: Engine Housing Cover
SINGLE

Part Image
Choose:
$5.46
AIRTEX Part # 1A1004 {#25518946, AR16}
Single Pipe

Part Image
$9.11
AP EXHAUST Part # 4948 Not legal for sale or use in the state of California


$12.08
WALKER Part # 35574 Converter Air Tube Kit; Universal For Replacement Converters One of our most popular parts
Used w/15512

Part Image
$18.50
POLLUTION CONTROL INDUSTRIES Part # 166 {#25518946} Converter Tube; Replaces OE #25518946
 
Bonnewagon said:
Hey guys, Rock Auto shows a converter air tube (aspirator) for an '81 Regal, and even a Walker universal tube for replacement CAT's, so perhaps there should be one. Check these out.
1981 BUICK REGAL 3.8L 231cid V6 : Emission : Air Injection Pipe Price
KEMPARTS Part # 160418
Air Injection Pipe SINGLE - w/o TURBO OE #25518946; Base Model [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining)

Part Image
$3.01
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AT105 {#25518946} Number of Outlets: 2; Mounting Style: Screw-in; Mounting Location: Engine Housing Cover
SINGLE

Part Image
Choose:
$5.46
AIRTEX Part # 1A1004 {#25518946, AR16}
Single Pipe

Part Image
$9.11
AP EXHAUST Part # 4948 Not legal for sale or use in the state of California


$12.08
WALKER Part # 35574 Converter Air Tube Kit; Universal For Replacement Converters One of our most popular parts
Used w/15512

Part Image
$18.50
POLLUTION CONTROL INDUSTRIES Part # 166 {#25518946} Converter Tube; Replaces OE #25518946

Sweet! thanks
 
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