HOW to make a gbody handle

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kad5118

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Apr 5, 2010
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Was-up Gbody forum,It has been a while since i Have been on here.I came back to ask the pros out there who has more knowledge then me ,about what it take to make these g body handle good.I have a 80 Monte Carlo and 80 Pontiac lemans,what are some mods that can be done to make these cars handle at least like the newer model cars.If any body out can shine some light on this topic i really would appreciate it.
 
IMO,a good starting place would be to get a copy of Mark Savitske's book How To Make Your Muscle Car Handle;
http://www.amazon.com/Make-Your-Muscle- ... car+handle
Theres lots of very useful info in there.
If you want to order a well thought out suspension package it doesent hurt to call Mark @ SC&C;
http://scandc.com/new/node/9
I bought one of his front end kits and man you wouldnt believe the difference it made.It was well worth the money;
http://scandc.com/new/node/47
I have a set of upper & lower UMI rear control arms to put on this year,and I'm hoping to see a difference with them;
http://scandc.com/new/node/797
http://scandc.com/new/node/796
Theres lots more you can do,better sway bars,improved steering boxes,better shocks & springs,etc.
Guy
 
Also,heres a link to a sticky about bracing.
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=8126
Lots of good info in here,more bracing is always a good thing to do to help reinforce the somewhat weak G Body frame.
Better tires also help in the handling dept.Lots of choices available today,it seems like 17 & 18 inch are the most popular sizes.
Guy
 
Does any one knows any interchangeable parts that would help out handling for these g bodies
 
kad5118 said:
Does any one knows any interchangeable parts that would help out handling for these g bodies

Ask ten guys and you'll get ten different answers. There is alot of info online and it's up to you to decide what to go with. There is usually a plus and minus with anything you do with the suspension.
 
Well start with making the frame more rigid.

You mention interchangeable parts so get the front jounce bars and the gp bar. Then find core support to fender braces, radiator support x brace, rear seat back brace, make a brace to tie the rear frame rails together. Them there are aftermarket control arm braces which are nice. I run a set of hotchkis. Then you can find a hollow 36mm sway bar off an f. Body. Get a factory rear sway bar from another gbody at the minimum. Box your lower rear control arms or go aftermarket. Avoid poly bushings in the upper rear end housing.

For the steering if yiu want to tighten it up get a quick ratio steering box from a gn or ws6 firebird up to 1992 I believe. That's what I run.

You can dive crazy deep into thee aftermarket with deep pockets but it just depends on what you want. Just the above things will make a big difference

Also good springs with the proper rate and correctly valves quality shocks help as well. Research is Def your friend on this subject
 
Kad5118,
1) How much are you willing to spend? 2) How much time will you allot for your build? 3) Be honest with yourself here. How will you be using your car (daily driver, weekend racer, etc.). ... The G-body chassis was designed over 40 years ago. The best you can achieve with factory bolt ons will be about (I say about because tires and shocks have improve ALOT today) what was had in 1987! That's along way from what you said you wanted: "at least like the newer model cars". ... Answer the questions above and people may be able to point you in the right direction.

Doug
 
Probably the biggest difference you can make right off the batt without a lot of work is to upgrade the wheels, tires and shocks. From there you can start with all of the other items like frame bracing, control arms, sway bars, etc.
 
The suspension design on the G-bodies is essentially identical back to about 1964. 'Handle like a modern car"? I'd snark, 'Buy a modern car', but that's not what you are asking. Focus first on restoring as-new before you go non-linear. Do some research on RockAuto.com before you go to AutoZone.

What do you know about its history? For a 30-year-old car with no idea of past maintenance, I'd suggest you start with the front suspension first. Front steering, and ball joints if you can. Spend the money on Moog or other good tie-rod ends, centerlink and idler arm, and four good shocks - I've had good luck with the KYB gas-adjusts. You'll notice an improvement for under $450 in hardware.

If you do the ball joints, consider taking the control arms off and pressing in new bushings at the same time. Most kits for the upper arm bushings include an offset camber cross-shaft (kicks in instead of straight - a little extra camber improves handling. With the uppers, put the alignment shims in little baggies an label them so you can get the alignment about back to where it was before. The upper ball joints are bolted or riveted in; the lower ones are pressed in from below the arms. This is about another $300 in hardware.

If you remove the control arms, consider a set of lowering springs. You'll need a spring compressor - borrow one from AutoZone or such. If you go lower than 1.5", you'll need to reconsider your choice of shocks. This is about $300-$450. The rear springs are easy to install - just lift the car and they fall out, drop in the new ones. Spring for new $8 rubber donuts that go on the tops if you are replacing the springs.

Start looking for an '800' steering box - this type has a square cover with four bolts, not round with a Circlip. The Pitman arm is what you're after - not sold anymore, and a rebuilt pump generally does not come with this arm installed. All the Monte Carlo, etc. close-ratio 'boxes are of the 800 style and the arms are not interchangeable from the round-top design (has a smaller hole/shaft). If you replace the steering box with a new one, don't kill it by using an old pump and hoses. There is no filter on the hydraulic fluid and all the corrosion and junk will dump into your new pump. Also, the '81 and later pumps use hose ends with an O-ring instead of a flare. If you are replacing the 'box, go ahead and get a new pump for the later hose ends. Make sure before you install it that the studs and bolts to fasten it to your engine brackets are in the right places, or have tapped holes in the right places. With the front wheels off the ground, fill the reservoir and cycle the wheel back and forth a few times to push the air out of the lines. If you start the engine before this, you'll foam the fluid and it will take forever to clear, and may damage the pump. Read the instructions included with the pump and steering box. A rebuilt pump is about $60, hoses, $40, and the box, about $350 with a steep core charge.

The final things to do are to replace the rear control arms or at least the bushings. If you decide to stay with the factory stamped steel arms, you'll need a press, and a piece of angle iron cut to slip indie the arms' sides so you don't crush the arm. They will make you jump when the corrosion finally lets go and the bushings pop out.
 
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