Make sure you replace the all the bushings, steering components. For the front, ideally the lower A-Arms should be close to parallel (?)/even with the crossmember. 2 inch dropped spring should be close to ideal. Taller upper and lower ball joints. This should lower the car another inch. The reason for the tall ball joints is to improve the camber curve when the suspension compresses------spindles going UP. The goal is for the camber to go negative, keeping the tread of the tire even with the road. This is where tubular control arms come into play. The cheapest ones are from Speedway motors at about $50.00 a piece. You want two RIGHT arm, they are 8 inches wide. You flip one for the left. They dont have bump stops for droop, but they are CHEAP. Other vendors are available and are on our forum also. You pick what you like the best for you. Better shocks naturally, Bilsteins are usually first choice, followed by KYBs. If your funds allow, single and double adjustable are available and recommended.......but be prepared to spend time testing and tuning. Coilovers are also available, just more money.
Its also recommended that whatever type of bushings you put in the control arms be the same upper and lower. Poly and poly, or Derlin and Derlin. If you buy upper control arms, get the matching type for the lowers. Boxing the lower factory control arms wouldn't hurt either. Dont forget the front frame braces, make them, buy them, or pull em out of the junkyard.
The rear is a little easier, control arms are widely available. Make sure u get at least the uppers adjustable, preferebly both. When you lower the rear, you can adjust your pinoin angle. If your going the budget approach, box the lowers, new bushing. Dont forget the bushings in the rear axle itself. Also consider the braces that tie the upper and lower control arm frame mounts together, as well as bracing/gusseting the lower mounts-----especially with the power your making.
Look int bracing as well, the rear frames are not known for strength. You can make bracing for the frame BEHIND the axle. Mount a trailer hitch and brace it, to strengthen the back of the frame as well. Look into the
Grand National GNX rear seat brace, and the double cross braces behind the seats from Pontiacs and oldsmobile. There is also the GN extra body mount.
If you are really pushing that much power-dont forget upgrading the brakes. The cheapest "BIG BRAKE" kit is, 330mm or
12.79" diameter rear corvette rotors with camaro twin piston calipers. 95 is the year/type. That requires a custom bracket, and some grinding of the spindles. The factory brake hose will even work, with a different banjo bolt. The parts are cheap enuff to even buy new. Hope this helps with out causing more confusion. Others here will chime in as well, good luck. Lenny
