I beez an electricimicution guy!
- Thread starter 69hurstolds
- Start date
They're still curly! Take my word for it. I'd show you but then Turna would wanna see. You know how he can be.
I should know something tomorrow. I'd rather risk $33 and some gas there and back than around $400 to have someone else do it.
For you HVAC guys out there, this is the part they had to order for me. ICM 277C. Seems rather simple. On the black box (relay) the fan wire (common) goes to the top spade, the 208V in goes to the normally open bottom left spade (which the old one is now fused together to act as NC all the time), and the 24V in goes to the normally closed spade on the bottom right.
With hvac electrical, like so many other things, there are several common things us unschooled bunch can easily both fix and plan ahead for breaking.
Plenty of contact point & switches can be fiddled with & emergency bypasses.
A capacitor will stop many items from starting without a boost. If outside unit is humming & fan not blowing, a leaf blower to spin the fan before it gets hot is a no tools jump start. As mentioned I do have an extra right now for my latest unit.. Caps are dangerous, but just like any electrical, don't touch more than 1 wire at a time & or a grounding point & you're good.
Breakers & cutoff switches frequently let enough current by to get a proper reading with meter, but not enough amps to run. That ole deal got me a few times in life.
Yea, paying a professional sometimes can be needed, but F that, we're the g-body guys, We fix as much of our own schtuff as humanly possible. We don't have to be damn experts at electrical, we just need to know how to survive it.
Plenty of contact point & switches can be fiddled with & emergency bypasses.
A capacitor will stop many items from starting without a boost. If outside unit is humming & fan not blowing, a leaf blower to spin the fan before it gets hot is a no tools jump start. As mentioned I do have an extra right now for my latest unit.. Caps are dangerous, but just like any electrical, don't touch more than 1 wire at a time & or a grounding point & you're good.
Breakers & cutoff switches frequently let enough current by to get a proper reading with meter, but not enough amps to run. That ole deal got me a few times in life.
Yea, paying a professional sometimes can be needed, but F that, we're the g-body guys, We fix as much of our own schtuff as humanly possible. We don't have to be damn experts at electrical, we just need to know how to survive it.
the $33 is an investment since it's a new part that may fix it.....that $400 is just a guestimate and we all know what can happen with that.....
The $33 will be sunk cost anyway at this point. I definitely NEED to replace the board/relay. So if it's still fuggin' up after that, there just can't be too much more wrong with it. It's either the T-stat doing the wrong call, or the heater circuit fubar. Everything actually works, just not working when it is supposed to/not supposed to.
If your Tstat has an emergency heat circuit, may be a long shot that it's messing with something. But I don't think that's it because you didn't have voltage.
