I want big tires on my cutlass help please!
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For me, I started with 9" slicks (drag radials) on 15x8 rims and incrementally went up until 28.5x11.5 bias ply slicks on 15x10 rims finally hooked. The car does 60ft in 1.5 (1.48 best) seconds and appears to be getting all the traction. I use a ford 9" rear made for the G body, and i've never touched the frame or body at all. I do have a wierd combo of wheel spacers, and 2 different back spacing rims, to maximize the space for drivers side and passenger side. The ford 9" puts the axle flange at a different measurement from frame rail on driver's side vs. pass. side, hence the wierd combo, plus i've heard that both stock wheel wells aren't indentical to begin with. The springs in the rear have the car sitting high, so those slicks never risk rubbing the wheel lip of the quarter panel. They do, however, stick out. my solution was to make my own fender flares. I love how they protect the car (the slicks pick up rocks and the rubber from burnouts was being sprayed back AND forward, and hitting my doors and side view mirrors, so I made flares). Some might consider them fugly, but for me the protection is worth it, plus, they utilize the factory chrome trim screws, so taking them off and returning to non-flared mode is seamless.
I took grey primer rattle can and sprayed the frame rails, then inspected that after some runs to see if the slicks were rubbing (they were which indicated to me to add some more spacer). In my sizing process I did buy and return multiple wheel & tire combinations after mounting (don't tell Summit!) but I never damaged anything, and no one questioned my returns. When I go back to the street, I'm gonna take the slicks off, the flares off, and probably go to a 15x8 rim with a P255-70 tire, which won't stick out beyond the wheel well. Hope this helps. I'll post some pics tonight from my home computer.
Kevin
I took grey primer rattle can and sprayed the frame rails, then inspected that after some runs to see if the slicks were rubbing (they were which indicated to me to add some more spacer). In my sizing process I did buy and return multiple wheel & tire combinations after mounting (don't tell Summit!) but I never damaged anything, and no one questioned my returns. When I go back to the street, I'm gonna take the slicks off, the flares off, and probably go to a 15x8 rim with a P255-70 tire, which won't stick out beyond the wheel well. Hope this helps. I'll post some pics tonight from my home computer.
Kevin
I have 295/50/r15 on back and 215/60/r14 on front. The rear has air shocks and must have 80-100 psi to keep from wheel rub. If I take a sharp turn up a hill, opposite back shock will buckle and fold in. Still driveable, but slow.
I get these shocks at local auto store for stock car. The traction is good, hardly ever loose traction with stock 455 and stock 350. Its not right however, I bought it like this. It works, but weight transfer seems wrong. However with a few mods, I bet I can make it work.
Forgot to add, rear ride height sits higher than stock. The rear trunk lid is usually almost level with ground. It looks nice and gives a mean stance, plus height lowers front slightly at bumper.
I get these shocks at local auto store for stock car. The traction is good, hardly ever loose traction with stock 455 and stock 350. Its not right however, I bought it like this. It works, but weight transfer seems wrong. However with a few mods, I bet I can make it work.
Forgot to add, rear ride height sits higher than stock. The rear trunk lid is usually almost level with ground. It looks nice and gives a mean stance, plus height lowers front slightly at bumper.
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if yer swaying that much in the back, a rear swaybar will hell make that stop, or at least put a big damper on yer leaning.
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