is this rearend worth it?

[DRIVEN]

^^Well said.^^

 

[garyl24]

hey 85cutlass you say to have a 3.23 gear installed but i did some searching and what i have read is the biggest i can put in is a 3.08. have i misread this? i do appreciate the help and advise, thank you

 

[78 salon]

hey 85cutlass you say to have a 3.23 gear installed but i did some searching and what i have read is the biggest i can put in is a 3.08. have i misread this? i do appreciate the help and advise, thank you

As 85 cutlass said 2 post up from yours. get the 3:23 from Richmond. It will be a thicker ring gear(no need for spacers) than what comes in a 3 series carrier, but it will work just fine.

 

[garyl24]

i will call and do some checking tomorrow. thanks

 

[jrm81bu]

Or if you can pull a 3.23 or numerically higher gear from the junk yard, you can use this to mak it work.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MGR-075050/

That is the spacer everyone is talking about. I have one in my car and would say it doesn't seem to make the 7.5 any weaker than it already is. Although if you have the money or plan to buy new gears instead of used, I'd just get the thick gears in whatever ratio you want.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

The 3.23 is most commonly found in some V6/5 speed Camaros and high altitude G bodies. However, I would just get the 3.23's for a 2 series carrier from Richmond or another reputable gear vendor. You will also have to get it properly set up, which runs about $150-200. It is very important that it be set up properly or else you will ruin the gear and have a noisy rearend. It is also important to remember that a new gear needs to be properly broken in. I forget the exact procedure off the top of my head, but it has something to do with a series of trips of a set length that will let the gears wear together without generating excess heat. Also remember that you will need the limited slip friction modifier in the gear lube when you put it in the car. I would also add that you should change the gear lube within 500-1,000 miles to get any metal shavings from the break in out of there. DO NOT BEAT ON IT UNTIL AFTER THE LUBE CHANGE!!! The gears come rough cut and are weaker when new than they are after they set their pattern. As for where to get the gear, I would let the shop that is doing the work source it for you. That way, if it is a bad job they can't blame your parts for their bad work. Plus, if it is wrong in some way, it is their responsibility and not yours. Normally I don't use shops, but it has been the experience of me and my friends that this is best left to someone with experience using the specialized tools required to properly set up a rear axle. If you plan on doing this regularly, it is advisable to buy $200 worth of precision, hard to find tools and learn to do it yourself. However, most people are better advised to pay a pro to do it for them. After all, the gear is about $200, as are the tools, and the bearing and seal kit is probably another $50. It would suck to waste $450 on something that goes wrong-especially when it could go right for no more money.