Just made decision for brake upgrade.

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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
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San Angelo, TX
Just finished my orders.

I'm in the final stages of a major refresh of the El Camino SS that I've owned for 25 years but don't drive much.
I just upgraded to 16X8 GTA wheels with 225/55R-16 front and 255/50R-16 rear.
This wheel and tire upgrade really pointed out to me how factory brakes in these Gbody cars really are. I cannot lock up the wheels no matter how hard I push on the pedal. New ceramic pads too.

So researching told me that these G body cars have "low drag" calipers and use a step bore master and this is the cause of the mushy, long pedal travel that these cars have and you hear so many complaints about. Couple this with the small size (2.38" ) of the metric caliper pistons and the small 15/16" bore size in the master and these barely have enough clamping force for stock sized tires but fall way short with wider stickier tires. I can't lockup the rear wheels either.

So this is what I'm going to do. On order are:
1: A pair of 2.75" bore metric calipers from Wilwood.
2: A 1" bore master cylinder used on the Riverra, El Dorado, Toronado and a few others. This is Centric part# 13062036 and I got this idea from member malibudave.
3: Rear brake cylinders for an S10.

I felt like this front upgrade more sense for me vs. going the Blazer spindle and hub route for options with larger rotors because of the way I drive this car. I want it stop positively in a panic type stop but won't need any benefits that larger rotors would give me. I'll never heat them up with what I use this car for. (I do have Power Stop slotted and drilled rotors btw so that will give me a little better heat dissipation anyway.) If the Wilwood calipers give me the stopping power to lock the wheels up and give a positive pedal feel when hitting the brakes hard, I will be perfectly happy. If I find that front or rear locks up too much earlier than the other, I can consider getting an adjustable proportioning valve. I'll cross that bridge later if necessary.

Malibudave has mentioned that he thought a master with a 1 1/8" bore would be better with the 2.75" Wilwood calipers. I was thinking 1" since these Wilwood calipers are still smaller than the 2.94" piston calipers used in the older A body, F body and others that used 1 1/8" masters for power brakes so I decided to call Wilwood and see what they said.
I did that this morning and the guy said without hesitation that a 1" master is the better match for their 2.75" metric calipers. He asked about my rear brakes and I told him I was getting the larger S10 7/8" bore cylinders for the drum brakes back there upgrading from the stock 3/4" ones and he thought that would be a good idea and should be a good match with a 1" master too. He also said a 1" master would be great if I upgraded to rear disc down the road.

My thanks to malibudave and others for previously posting a lot of info regarding brake upgrades. Gave me the ideas to explore before deciding what I wanted to do.

I'll follow up with my results once I get all this stuff in and test driven.
 
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Bonnewagon

Lost in the Labyrinth
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Sep 18, 2009
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I have to agree with the 1-1/8" bore advice. I prefer the largest bore possible to get pedal travel as short as possible. What you experienced was small bore pedal travel. It gives you lower pedal effort but more travel. Even though pedal effort goes up with a larger bore- the power booster make that point moot.
 
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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
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I have to agree with the 1-1/8" bore advice. I prefer the largest bore possible to get pedal travel as short as possible. What you experienced was small bore pedal travel. It gives you lower pedal effort but more travel. Even though pedal effort goes up with a larger bore- the power booster make that point moot.
I wasn't sure but the tech from Wilwood confirmed my logic that since 2.94" piston calipers used 1 1/8" masters and the 2.38" piston calipers used 15/16" it seems like the 2.704" piston Wilwood caliper would use in between those 2 which leaves you at choosing the 1". I don't want them too touchy either.

Keep in mind that the stock step-bore master requires some pedal travel just to close the distance between the brake pad and the rotor due to the low-drag calipers pulling them back. Won't have that happening anymore so that will reduce pedal travel some.

We shall see. I'm not paying that much for this 1" master and if I'm not happy and think the 1 1/8" would be better, I'll make another change.
 
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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
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San Angelo, TX
My new brake parts get here tomorrow.
Just did an interesting calculation:

On the calipers, going up from stock 2.38" pistons to 2.75" ones gives 29% more area.
On the master, going up from the stock 24mm to the 1" bore, gives 12% more area.
On the rear, going up from 3/4" to 7/8" cylinders is 36% more area.
 
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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
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Update:
I completed all the upgrades I mentioned in my first post. The results are better but still not totally happy.
I normal driving the pedal feels firmer at tad higher and stops the car with a little less effort.
But in a panic type stop I still can't lock up the front brakes no matter how much leg I put into it. The rear does lock now though. Of course you don't want it do that unless the front locked up first. Also the pedal travel then feels too far and seems to be bottomed out. Not on the floor but pretty far down.

I've decided to upgrade to a B body 11" dual diaphragm booster and have one on order. My original 9" dual is 36 years old so I figure I'm not only getting rid of an old part but should get an upgrade too.
I've seen some posts on the montecarloss forum where guys have done this upgrade and they say it makes a big improvement. We shall see.

When I put the new Wilwood calipers on, I also installed a new set of Wagner Thermoquiet semi-metallic pads. I may call Wilwood and see if they recommend something else that may give me more friction.
 
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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
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769
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San Angelo, TX
A 1" bore master cylinder used on the Riverra, El Dorado, Toronado and a few others. This is Centric part# 13062036 and I got this idea from you in a post you made a while back.
 
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roger1

G-Body Guru
Aug 23, 2010
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San Angelo, TX
What master did you go with?
Hey Dave. Any ideas why I still can't lock up my front brakes with these parts I've put on? And why the pedal feel is very good in normal driving but seems to go too far down in a panic type stop and has a bottomed out feeling?
 
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malibudave

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Mar 12, 2010
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With a 1.0" bore master cylinder, in a vacuum boosted system, you should be generating enough pressure to lock up the tires. Unless your front tires are in some sticky race tires, you should be able to do a lock up with the pads, calipers, and master cylinder you are using.

If you still have the rubber lines, use a hose clamp and clamp of the two front lines and the one rear line. Your pedal should be rock hard after you clamp off the line If there is significant movement in the pedal stoke, you still have air in the line before the clamp or possibly the push rod in the booster is too short. If you are still running the stock, front the factory rubber lines, you might want to install new rubber lines or aftermarket stainless steel replacements.

Next make sure your rear shoes are adjusted out all the way against the drum. The shoes should self adjust when you brake in reverse.

When bench bleeding the master cylinder, I like to use the plug method by plugging the outlets to the master and cycling the master cylinder piston with a blunt rod. The piston should become rock hard and this means that the master cylinder will hold pressure. If the piston never firms up, then the master cylinder is bad. If the master cylinder piston becomes rock hard, push the piston in and hold pressure on the piston for about a minute. If it slowly sinks, the master cylinder is bad. Usually, the plastic plugs that they give you to do this procedure are fairly useless as they never tighten up and allow air to be pulled back into the master cylinder. You may be able to find 1/2-20 brass, inverted flare plugs at the local auto parts store for the rear port of the master cylinder, but they may not have 9/16-18 plug for the front. If not, you can get these plugs from speedwaymotors.com. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Master-Cylinder-Plugs-1-2-20-9-16-18-Zinc-Finish,239113.html

You can't bench bleed the master on the car as the angle of the firewall may keep air in the master cylinder. The bottom of the master cylinder will need to be level.

I think you have air somewhere in the system, a defective master, a worn out vacuum booster, or rear shoes not adjusted. I really don't think its your pads or front calipers. I will lean more toward air first, then master cylinder. Even though new, master cylinder aren't the best quality for some reason. Though the booster is on the smaller side, I don't think its your issue. You will benefit from a b-body booster, but I don't think the vacuum booster is your issue now.

Do you have brake fluid seeping out of the cap or bottom seals?
 
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