Last few kinks

[gregidea]

I know I've been posting a lot on here lately, but you guys have been a big help for sure. I'll have the new motor up and running today, so here's what I need to know.

1. For a 383ci/330hp motor, what should I set the idle to?

2. My wires look like sh*t. They are way too long. I bought the universal back when I was still in high school, and they had a lifetime warranty. So, I got brand new ones for free, just to get this car running. But, what would you suggest for nice fitting wires? Make my own?

3. The heads on this motor required an intake for 87-95 heads. Only difference up above is that the distributor hold down clamp is bumping into a port I had to plug, so I'm not getting a good hold on the dist. I'm looking all over the place, and all the clamps look to be the same length. WTF?

Any feedback on any of these problems would be greatly appreciated. I'll post a video later on today once I get this thing running.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

Dont worry about asking questions, its why were here, for the idle I would think anywhere between 800-1000 rpms would be fine. Mine is set at 750-800 and I have no problems. For the wires I actually had this same problem so I got on Summit and bought some Summit brand wires (I cant remember the part number) but they work fine. There is a little slack in them but pull the wires tight in the looms and then you should be fine. I put all the slack back behind the distributor Heres a pic:

 

[CHRIS.O]

You mean the back of the hold down is touching something? Can you post a pic? I think I know what you mean but am not sure. If you have to you can cut the back of the hold down off. Just use a lock washer or something to make sure the hold down stays secure when bolted down.

As far as the idle I agree with the above. With a 330hp 383 the build is pretty mild, so no crazy cam or anything like that which would require a high idle. It should idle just fine around 800, might even be able to get away with 7 or 750.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

Another option for running your wires is to run them underneath the tubes and have them come up to the distributor at the rear corners of the block. I recall a few 70's 350's I had that came with a heavy wire clip on the side of the block specifically for that purpose. They're retained by a single bolt. It's more time consuming to route them that way, but the wires are out of sight and less likely to get burned.

 

[Phoenyx]

Another option for running your wires is to run them underneath the tubes and have them come up to the distributor at the rear corners of the block.

That's how the original ones were routed on my 1980 305.

 

[gregidea]

That sounds about right where I have the idle now. Perfect!

I found a mr gasket hold down that fit, no problem. The one I had was just way to wide.

The wires look bad, but will work for now. Just want to get the break-in process started.

The only problem I'm running into right now is I realized that the a-frame is bumping into my headers on the passenger side. Anyone else run into this problem? Didn't notice this until I dropped the jack-stands. I'm thinking of just using a hack-saw or file to take away some of the a-frame. It's just the slightest bit, but don't want a hole worn into my brand new headers. I had a bad exhaust leak before, and am ready for a properly working motor already. Bad idea?

 

[87montecarlomrc]

That sounds about right where I have the idle now. Perfect!

I found a mr gasket hold down that fit, no problem. The one I had was just way to wide.

The wires look bad, but will work for now. Just want to get the break-in process started.

The only problem I'm running into right now is I realized that the a-frame is bumping into my headers on the passenger side. Anyone else run into this problem? Didn't notice this until I dropped the jack-stands. I'm thinking of just using a hack-saw or file to take away some of the a-frame. It's just the slightest bit, but don't want a hole worn into my brand new headers. I had a bad exhaust leak before, and am ready for a properly working motor already. Bad idea?

I had thw same problem i just grinded msome of thw metal off the a arm alil

 

[hotrodoldsman]

2. My wires look like sh*t. They are way too long. I bought the universal back when I was still in high school, and they had a lifetime warranty. So, I got brand new ones for free, just to get this car running. But, what would you suggest for nice fitting wires? Make my own?

I am a big fan of making your own wires, get a good set of taylors or at least a bigMM set of accel wires but always make your own. That way you decide how they are routed. Also, check summit racing, I got a set of wire seperator looms for my 455(they are universal) that use the lower valve cover bolt holes and longer bolts and route the wires along the bottom and behind the valve cover, as opposed to over it... they look great! Heres a picture of them while my motor was still on the stand:

 

[gregidea]

Well, here is the video I promised:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXvmLt2ppw8

Got the A-frame deal taken care of. The last thing is there's a little oil leak on the back. I'm hoping it was just because I ran her for a few minutes without the dizzy tightened down complete, since I was still timing her. I'll find out tomorrow when the sun is out.

And yes, those are purple hornies.

 

[CHRIS.O]

Glad ya got her broken in. Gotta love those late night cam break ins I have done a couple of those myself. That sucks about the leak, hopefully it is not the intake, be a pain to take it off and redo that part. Did you use the little rubber end rail gaskets or just a bead of RTV for the intake? I have never been able to get the rubber seals to work without leaking.